Tarun's Trails

Last weekend i watched Alque Padamsee's adaptation of the Bard's 'Macbeth'.

Not a great fan of the senior Padamsee's work, what drew me was the promise of seeing costumes fashioned by couturier Tarun Tahiliani amongst the action on stage.

While the production had its high points, i was quite taken aback on seeing the costumes.

The ensembles bore the appropriate period look with capes that secured around the neck, faux leather fashioned into breast plates and thigh grazing tunics worn over leggings (hose) for the knights. Even the suede footwear was detailed with rivetted straps that ran up the calves. The maid servants' garb appeared charming and feminine to the eye, and in the case of Lady Macbeth, appropriatly dark, mysterious and sensuous.

But something kept bothering my eye.... And it took me a moment to figure what that discordant note was. And lo and behold clarity presented itself. The garments were badly constructed!

And not i'm not talking threads hanging loose..... but puckers and bad bad draping and construction!

Lady Macbeth's gown looked flat. One could tell it was a Tarun from the flow of fabric and the twists and turns of the drape, but the execution was plain horrid!

Post show, i spoke to a couple of friends in the know and pieced together the story.

Those were indeed designs from the Tahiliani stable, but in trying to keep production costs low, the sketches had been interpreted into fabric by Padamsee's costume people.

From what i hear Tarun himself was aghast at the final effect and asked to not be enlisted for such projects again.

Just goes to show, that quality and technique are as much a hallmark of a classy design label as the creative content.

What does it take to be a world renowned designer?

by Merril Diniz for Rediff.com

This question was one I was hoping to tackle here on the blog, and as I hopped over to Rediff.com, I found they'd gotten Didier Grumbach, Chairman of the Fédération Française de la Couture (French Association of Couture) to reveal all.

The Fédération Française de la Couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode was established in 1973. It derives from the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture created in 1868. So to say that Didier Grumbach is a prominent figure in the world of international fashion is putting it lightly. And it is key to note that he was present at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, that commenced in Delhi the other day.

So it doesn't get much better than this. If you aspire to someday be the toast of the fashion cognoscenti, with an empire to call your own, then listen up and listen good as Didier Grumbach reveals some gems about what works in the international market and how to build your brand. This is what he had to say…

Let your personality shine

A designer must not be influenced by anyone else. "He has a message that is totally his own. He creates something that doesn't exist in the world, which becomes international." Didier quotes the example of French designer Jean Paul Gaultier who didn't sell a piece from his first show. "He was weird. Of course, he thought his clothes were very wearable. In a year or two, it became a trend and he built a repertoire. Because of such a repertoire, the brand survives even after the departure of the designer."

Didier also mentions designers like Chanel and Balienciaga, whose brands live on even today. He calls Gaultier an artist, whose designs brought out his own personality. This is one approach to designing.

Designing for an audience

The other approach is to adjust designs to a specific territory and with a target audience in mind. He stresses that being a world-class designer is not just about how many orders you get. "You can be very successful in selling. You can also make a fantastic impact and get few orders. To build your brand, these two things are complementary."

India on the international ramp

According to Didier, there are no nationalities in the world of fashion and India must be shown to the world in the right way. "The way we will look at fashion with your Indian culture is something that will add tthe world community the way Japan has succeeded in changing the way we work and feel. We dress in a Japanese manner without even knowing it, thinking it is part of the everyday world," says Didier.

He quotes the examples of Japanese designers Kenzo, who opened his first boutique in 1970, and Issey Miyake, who first showcased his collection in Paris in 1973. Eventually, both went on to make a mark on the international map.

Photograph: Jewella C Miranda

Little Red Riding Hood Goes to Tokyo via India

That's how designer Manish Arora describes his collection at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week that got off to a rocking start in Delhi yesterday. Renowned as the enfant terrible of the Indian Fashion circuit, Arora also ably sports the tag 'King of Kitsch'.

This collection was infact the same one Arora showed at London Fashion Week earlier this year and stayed true to Manish's hugely flamboyant style. His clothes take over the room and certainly aren't for the faint of heart. Looking back on the past few years, it appears that Manish is on a journey of excess, quite like the one the world witnessed a few seasons ago with Galliano.

Manish's is a roving eye. He allows all manner of visual stimuli to end up on his clothes. A million colours burst forth with each ensemble, with as many fabrics and embellishment techniques visible in each garment. The effect is nothing short of striking psychedelia.

Arora's world is a stoned man's paradise. A fantasy world where Lil' Red Riding Hood sets off on a journey to Tibet, taking the meandering scenic route. She finds herself in India meeting with Gods and animals. Elsewhere exploring forests, snow capped moutains, the streets and skylines of cities and taking many a detour along the way.

Yours truly on BBC World Service Radio

Thanks to the post I wrote on the wardrobe malfunction issue, I was asked by the kind people at BBC World Service Radio to participate in a live discussion on their show 'World Have Your Say'. The topic of discussion was the reaction of the Indian media and politicians to the incidents. It was broadcast last night around 11.30 pm IST.

They sent over the link to the online audio file as it went online today. You can listen to the program here. You'll find the audio link (labelled 'Listen to the programme') on the right hand side bar. Let me know if you have any problems accessing it. You need to have either Windows Media Player or Real Player to listen in.

There are a bunch of issues discussed during the show, ranging from Kuwaiti women going to the polls, to the reaction to the news that Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra is stepping down, reaction to the news that Zacarias Moussaoui is eligable to face the death penalty and the political reaction to the wardrobe malfunctions at Lakme Fashion Week. The the style editor of the national daily Indian Express, Namrata Sharma Zakaria was also a guest on the show.

So go hear out our opinions, and share your own. Here's to the the power of blogging!

Sonam Dubal's Cosmic Romance

While Anshu Arora looked to Japan, couturier Sonam Dubal ventured closer home. In this collection titled 'Cosmic Romance', Dubal brought alive visions of Tibetian and Sikkimese textile traditions.

The austere landscape and traquil elegance of the region were the essence of this very wearable collection. Dubal's strength lies in creating silhouettes that are pan-Asian in style.

The designer has long been a promoter of the traditional Tibetian raw silk colloquially termed burrey or tsen which is handwoven in south Assam. His fabrics are layered and embroidered both by hand and machine, with surface embellishment through silk-stitched stripes and floral embroidery explorations in resham (silk yarn) to create a carpet weave like quality reminiscent of Western Asia.

Tsen along with crepe de chine formed the basis of this 55 ensemble collection, while colours ranged from muted tones with touches of gray, black and cream, broken with some rust, burgundy, deep red, orange, cobalt blue and black.

Seen alongside is a sublime ensemble, carried by model Bhavan Kapoor. I simply love the refinement of line, and balance of shapes, contrast, embroidery and stripe. Take away the kimono style jacket and the resulting look is very street chic.

For contemporary chic Dubal had a rust embroidered Nepalese top worn with a circular embroidered bakhu skirt. Subtle drama was generated with a black coat with black honju dotted pyjamas and striped obi belt.

Trend Tip: Interestingly, obi belts are all the rage for Resort wear with international designers like Dries Van Noten showing the sensuous Japanese accessory over soft, unstructured and feminine blouses. Source: Guise

With this collection at Lakme fashion Week, Sonam Dubal succeeded in reminding us that there is indeed much beauty and romance in rustic threads.

The Bakhu and Honju

The Bhutias are people of Tibetan origin that migrated to Sikkim perhaps somewhere after the fifteenth century. In Northen Sikkim, where they are the major inhabitants, they are known as the Lachenpas and Lachungpas. The language spoken by the Bhutias is Sikkimese.

The traditional dress of the male member is known as the Bakhu which is a loose cloak type garment with full sleeves. The ladies dress consists of a silken Honju which is a full sleeve blouse and a loose gown type garment. The ladies are very fond of heavy jewelry made of pure gold.

Source: www.sikkim.nic.in

Anshu's Oriental Connection

Designers often allow art and craft elements from exotic lands to permeate their collections. This time around Anshu Arora Sen drew inspiration from the Japanese art of Origami, birds and the different times of the day for her collection of 45 ensembles at the Lakme Fashion Week.

Anshu is one of the most creative designers we have here in India, known as much for the esoteric quality of her clothes as their innovative garment construction. From her first foray onto the fashion scene in 2001 at the Lakme India Fashion Week, Anshu Arora Sen has always drawn critical appreciation. Post an introspective silence of two years, Anshu's voice resounded with more clarity than ever before.

Her storytelling was simultaneously crisp and concise, poetic and lyrical. With a whimsy reflective of the designer herself, the models sat by the edges of the ramp, dangling their feet and looking around curiously before walking down seemingly entranced by the deeply soulful music.

Colours moved from silver grey to acid green, orange, shocking pink and brown in short silk and organza. Garments were structured with draping, folding, pin tucking, pleating and cutting. The effect was very nearly sculptural and timeless.

Perfectly tailored pieces with the occasional contrast lining for skirts and dresses were breathtaking, while skirts wound their way around the body, to be held in place with tie-ups or pins. Halter dresses were given a new dimension as they plunged dangerously below the back waist and oversized collars held the garment together.

Trousers were skin tight but with enough detailing to remain eye catching. Anshu chose to keep embellishments minimal - beaded motifs, strings and beads, floral appliqués, smocking, quilting and hints of embroidery at neck, sleeve or blouse closures.

For Fall, she added in some vibrant jackets with overlapping closures and knee length coats. Here was a collection that was not only high on creativity but commercial viability as well. It gave one a sense of Issey Miyake's style, but Anshu's soft, dream like sensibility made it all her own.

Surily's Trans-continental Journey

If one were to take away the stars from Surily Goel's debut Lakme Fashion Week show, there were few moments that really made an impact.

Her collection titled 'Roses Are Forever' was inspired by the many moods of a woman in love, from shy and flirtatious, to sultry and passionate. While the collection had a lot of colour and glamour, it tended towards a lack in innovation, with certain shapes like the flounced panelled skirt appearing too often and the Rose theme not often enough.

The sequence was divided into four parts each representing a different mood, each with a romantic title. I'll just walk you through the ensembles that represent each.

Here you see Neelam Kothari in an ensemble from the line 'Wild Temptation', which was a printed cotton resort line with African tribal prints on halters, skirts, minis and tube dresses in vibrant hues of red, turquoise, mustard and sunshine yellow. An interesting line, but one which doesn't quite fall within the Rose theme.

Paisleys ruled on kimono-inspired silhouettes in the second line titled 'Sweet Sensation'. With a definite Oriental flavour in all-over prints on muted tones of grey/blue satin, this line consisted of blouses, dresses and tiny tops as well as long slim skirts with crochet lace insets.

'Tender Love' the third collection replete with charming English touches such as this lacey parasol, had elements of an ecru crochet base with bright georgette insets.

Finally, 'Pure Passion' with abstract rose inspired prints in red and blue on a black satin ground, brings to mind the sensuality of the Spanish dancer, as can be seen here on the lovely Nina Manuel.

One came away with the impression that the designer was attempting to explore roses in their pale English softness, as also their vibrant Spanish lusciousness, their dramatic Oriental avtaar, and not to miss their sub-Saharan African quality, but the final effect appeared fragmented thanks to these very varied points of reference. And while I concede it's no joke putting together a collection, somewhere along this journey across continents, Surily left us feeling a tad disoriented.

Photos: Rediff.com, Reuters.

Rocky picks on 'Lolita' for inspiration

Bollywood's favourite designer chose to depart from his strongly sexy, silver screen mould and give us a new direction to Fall/Winter '06. His collection is dedicated to the modern day 'Lovely Lolitas'.

In his own words, "It is about a woman who is flirtatious, sexy, intelligent and confident," he says. "It talks about her dual personality. All pretty and proper on the outside, with a naughty, mean streak within. It’s cheek and chutzpah, cleverly concealed by innocence."

Drawing inspiration from teen fashion of the 60s and 70s, Rocky came up with a western look that is chic and contemporary, with touches of his flamboyant style. This collection found him playing with separates as never before, putting them together to create a flirty, young, feminine look.

Rocky's skirts came in all shapes and lengths, from the barely there micro minis, to nostalgia inducing flouncy, layered, calf length ones and finally long columnar numbers perched provocatively at the hips. One detail that caught my eye, was the bunched up waistline of this shimmery gold skirt, held in place with an applied waistband.

Denim played an important part but was restricted to leg clinching jeans with lavish embroidery, and seemed discordant with the over all feel of the collection. Metallic and glitter elements were spotted, as gold shorts, dazzling structured jackets and glittering corsets gave the collection the drama it needed.

Fabrics ranged from lace, georgette, chiffon, lame and Rocky's new favourite - faux fur, appeared as trims, bolero jackets, and stoles, sometimes with jarring effect. Asymmetry was the common theme, whether for his tunics, blouses, skirts or dresses.

Rocky showed a fondness for the 'H' shaped Flapper silhoutte, as seen here on Carol Gracias, along with the Empire line. His silhouettes showed extremes - close fitted all the way or voluminous peasant sleeves, skirts and blouses - the latter reined in with a tight vest on occasion.

One of the highlights of the collections was the rich texturing and surface treatment for some of the garments - ruching, shredding, smocking to give new life to the fabrics.

The colour palette was muted as neutrals and pastels like pink, champagne, were enlivened by sudden bursts of bright cherry reds, golds and forest greens.

Embellishments were opulent as clear crystals, stones, polished pearls and 3D flowers gave the designer's high end prêt line called 'Rocky S Noir' that up market feel.

Hair styling included original 60s teen hair dos with lots of soft curls and fringes. A charming addition was the off-white flower detail which replaced ribbons and bows as hair fasteners.

Rocky's make-up story borrowed heavily from the Lolita look again with lots of pink on lips and fresh faces. The look was intended to be youthful and flirtatious and Rocky scored a perfect 10.

With inputs from www.rvgonline.com
Photos: Reuters, Rediff.com

Of wardrobe malfunctions and ramp gaffs!

I know, I ought to have given you detailed reviews of the LFW Day 1 shows by now, but I have got a life, plus more pressing are the faux pas and faux moves which keep coming off the ramp our way and need to be spoken of!

First it was Surily Goel going OTT on the glam factor, resulting in the collection of a serious designer like Anshu Arora Sen being sent to near oblivion (Indian news channel NDTV has been showcasing Rocky S' video clip with the title "A Small Shop", hoping no one in fashiondom will know the difference) and now we have a huge huge gaff by Mumbai based designer Bennu Sehgall.

Model Carol Gracias was left red cheeked and bare chested mid ramp thanks to an ill-fitting and badly constructed halter top designed by Bennu Sehgall for her line titled 'Bennu Sehgall Originals'. An audience packed with fashionistas, international buyers, media reps and photographers got more than what they bargained for when Carol took to the catwalk and the ties on her halter top came undone! Commendably the model kept her calm, held up the garment and kept on strutting with poise and confidence, even striking a pose at head ramp.

Backstage whispers reveal that Bennu Sehgall's outfits were "ill-fitting and bizarre" and models, who are known to accomodate all manner of oddities and fancies of designer clothing and accessories, were reluctant to don her ensembles.

Well, we now hear the Fashion Week organisers are rethinking Sehgall's membership. It's unfortunate but that's what we have fittings for! They are meant to help avoid such gaffs and the onus of ensuring that the show goes smoothly lies on the designer and her backstage help.

All would have been well had the ensembles been given the clean chit fit-wise. But as that isn't so, it does throw something of an eclipse on Bennu Sehgall's future with Lakme Fashion Week.

Well there is always the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week. There you have it... the silver lining in view.

Photo: Rediff.com

Fashion Week Snapshots:

Bollywood outshines Surily's clothes

How many celluloid stars does it take to light up a show? If you go by Surily Goel's estimate, atleast three on ramp and seven odd more in the front row.

You'd think it was a Bollywood awards show with the number of celebs that lined Surily's show.

With Neelam Kothari rendering sweet and girly, an African inspiration tube dress, followed by Salman lending his trademark maschismo to the velvet suit emblazoned "Royalty" and Malaika Arora rounding off the catwalk with a huge dose of sultry style, the show seemingly had something for everyone.

Well, in her own words: "Clothes are not just embellishments that enhance one's personality they also reflect it. I ensure that there is only one point of emphasis in every garment I design. To define my design philosophy with three adjectives clarity, wearablity and most of all versatility."

She appears to be sticking to her mantra with mixed results.


Too much of a good thing?

The dress code for Manish Malhotra's special invitees appears to have been black and white, what with the ramp decked out in pure black and the collection that graced it fashioned in ethereal white.

Here's Sangeeta Bijlani with cricketer husband Azhar, dressed in what can only be termed a study in variegated black and white stripes. While the suit is classy and as we overheard an Armani, the sailor striped tee could have been given a clear miss for something solid. Same goes for the satin handbag... simply a stripe too many.

Absolutely delicious thought are the sassy zebra sandals. Let's just train our eyes on those.

Photos: Reuben Varghese for Rediff.com

Lakme Fashion Week Sidelines:

Narendra Ahmed's petition against the FDCI shot down

Cementing the divide between the Mumbai and Delhi fashion circles, the Anti-Monopoly Commission yesterday turned down Mumbai designer Narendra Ahmed's petition to stay the FDCI's upcoming Fashion Week in Delhi. Ahmed had hoped to delay the India Fashion Week so that he could show his clothes there post the Lakme Fashion Week.

Ever since FDCI parted ways with Lakme, it had imposed a ban on participation of designers who attend the rival event.

The commision held that the restrictions imposed by FDCI did not amount to "restrictive practices". FDCI on it's part sited 'limited' exhibition slots -- either on ramp or in stalls, adding that in the larger interest of the fashion fraternity, the council was focused on giving priority to those members who are not exhibiting in other events.

Contrary to the populist view, the commission views the FDCI's stand as one that "promotes competition and does not curtail it by adopting restrictive trade practices".

Maybe there's comfort to be found in Lenin's words: "It is impossible to predict the time and progress of revolution. It is governed by its own more or less mysterious laws. But when it comes it moves irresistibly."

Read up on the punches and blows so far.

The Lakme Fashion Week kicks off in Mumbai

The Lakme Fashion Week 2006 commenced today in Mumbai, amid much hype and some confusion. One last minute snag that caused much anxiety was the change of PR agencies from IPAN to Genesis. That blip past, and post the usual delays, the fashion set, journalists and international buyers strapped in for the crazy ride this week promises to be!

Day 1 saw the prêt lines of Mumbai designers Rocky S, Surily Goel and Manish Malhotra along with the show of waifish Delhi based designer Anshu Arora Sen for 'A Small Shop'.

Bollywood dominated the scene with stars wedged in the front row seats as well as on the ramp. With Surily Goel literally 'watching his back', Salman Khan strutted the ramp in a flashy red shirt and black suit emblazoned with the words "Royalty" at his back.

With model Shivani Kapur looking the icy pale Goth Bride by his side, Bollywood actor John Abraham strode down the ramp, a part of the show stopper for Rocky S. The duo were a vision of haute couture for what Lakme proposed was to be essentially a presentation of ready-to-wear clothing.

Oh well, John won the audience's appreciation.

Rocky explained: "John is a good friend. In all-women model show, we thought making a guy walk the ramp would make it look complete. So, at the end of the show, we have John walking in with Kapur."

Photo: Jewella C Miranda for Rediff.com

Spotlight: Anshu Arora Sen

Designer Anshu Arora Sen is known as the petite woman's designer, choosing to construct clothing with minimal seams and no zippers or mechanical fastenings, her clothes are often termed 'zen-like'. Having trained in Fashion Design at NIFT, Anshu started her label “A Small Shop” in 1998. Her collection currently retails in India, as well as in London and Brussels.

Collection Trademark: minimalist; vibrant colours; adventurous shapes, cuts and drapes; traditional Indian craft-inspired details e.g. drawstrings (her creations are devoid of zippers and fasteners!)

Drop by for reviews, trend spotlights and snatches of gossip as the event unfurls right here and swing around to Sifymax, for live webcasts of the shows.

Up Next:

• Rocky picks on 'Lolita' for inspiration.
• Deconstructing Surily's style statement.
• Get lyrical with Anshu Arora Sen.
  
• The reveal on Manish Malhotra's collection.
  

An intiative with heart: From bags to riches

A small - scale project to help an Indian slum by selling handbags made of discarded plastic has boomed into a million - grand industry with a heart.

It may sound hard to believe, but handbags for sale in some of London's fashionable boutiques started out as used plastic bags scavenged from the rubbish heaps of Delhi. They are the product of a cottage industry run out of the living rooms of a handful of houses in a Delhi slum. The plastic bags are ferreted out by the rag-pickers, the poorest of Delhi's poor, who make their living hunting for scraps in the rubbish of their richer neighbours.

They are then moulded together into single sheets of thick, durable plastic, stitched into handbags with bright, colourful designs, and sent off to boutiques in Britain, the US, France, Spain, and much of Europe.

It is all the result of an environmental and development project dreamed up four years ago by an Indian couple, Shalabh and Anita Ahuja, who run their own NGO, Conserve.

The plastic is stitched into brightly coloured handbags

Waste management is one of the biggest problems that India faces and Anita and her friends have been tackling the issue since 1998. They worked on a waste management project with low-income groups in Mandaoli (a Delhi slum) for nearly four years, and then started another project in Safdarjung. "We collected waste from 500 houses to make compost in a municipal corporation park. That's when we realised how much plastic the city uses. So we started on the plastic bag project."

Conserve came up with the novel idea of turning used plastic bags into trendy handbags, shopping bags, wallets, tablemats and notepad covers. These are being snapped up by environment-friendly shoppers, who are happy to support an idea that has changed the lives of slum women and turned one of the banes of city life into a saleable product. The plastic bags are collected by women from east Delhi slums (Phoragaon, Yamuna Pusta and Mandaoli). Each day, they scavenge around the garbage bins, hunt in choked drains and pick up flyaway trash on traffic-infested roads. The plastic they collect is thoroughly washed, dried, separated by colour and arranged in trays; the women wear masks while working to protect themselves from plastic toxicity. The plastic bags then go into a machine designed by Conserve, which presses them into thick sheets. These sheets are then bought by Conserve.

Says Anita:

"I have started looking at plastic differently. Much to my family's embarrassment, I get out of my car at traffic lights and pick up colourful plastic bags from the roads. It's very difficult to colour plastic and we use no dyes. Colourful bags make the sheets more vibrant."

She admits that most people are hesitant about buying bags made from waste plastic. "We tell the women making the sheets that they must wash the plastic very carefully, for buyers will be looking at both quality and cleanliness." Conserve's efforts were amply rewarded when the products they recently put up during a special event at Dilli Haat (a permanent crafts bazaar) were all sold out. The products sold at reasonable prices — handbags between Rs 300 and Rs 1,500, shopping bags from Rs 50 to Rs 250 and wallets between Rs 100 and Rs 300.

They freely admit that they never dreamed that what they envisaged as a small-scale project for a single slum would turn into a profitable enterprise, exporting all over the world and with an annual turnover of around £100,000.

Today, Conserve's handbags contribute to the livelihoods of more than 300 people, from the rag-pickers paid for collecting the plastic bags, to the skilled labourers who sew the handbags. The NGO employs eight rag-pickers directly, as its core team, but buys plastic bags from a far larger number.

Anita and her team are thrilled with the compliments they have been receiving. "If we count the human hours put into the project, I can safely say we have invested roughly Rs 1 lakh in it. We hope we can get a grant to buy sewing machines. At present, women gather in the homes of those who have machines and this slows down our production. We also need more sheet-presser machines and we need to expand our collection centres. But more importantly, the women who work for Conserve should become the shareholders of the company. If that happens then in our small way, we may get people to see throwaway plastic bags differently."

With inputs from The Star, BBC.co.uk and The Hindu.

Shawl Whisperer

This shawl is no ordinary piece of clothing. While gifts allow us to remember friends and loved ones when we travel or move to far away places, the whiSpiral is a new kind of keepsake that explores how technology can enhance the way garments and accessories evoke memories of these relationships.

And I simply *love* the point of inspiration... The whiSpiral is inspired by the power of a simple human voice to evoke rich memories of a person or relationship, and by the power of a whisper as a medium of intimacy.

Circuitry is directly integrated in the textile that allows you to record up to 9 audio messages at different points in a spiral-shaped shawl. The messages are whispered back each time you wrap the shawl around yourself, or caress a different part of the fabric. The whiSpiral would be a perfect going away gift.

Levi's RedWire DLX iPod jeans

A quick heads-up to Fall '06.

Now we all know how hugely popular the iPod is. Billions and gazillion pieces sold worldwide. The final frontier for iPod accessories is clothing. And who's the latest to jump on that particular bandwagon? None other than jeans-maker Levis is keeping its date with technology. Come Fall and Levis will launch the new Levi's RedWire DLX Jeans worldwide.

Designed for both men and women, the jeans will seamlessly integrate iPod plug-and-play technology, using an iPod docking cradle, which will be invisibly housed within a side pocket.

Interestingly a special joystick remote control will be externally designed into the jeans' watch pocket to enable easy operation of the iPod. Four way controls will allow the wearer to easily navigate, play/pause, track forward, track back and adjust volume without removing the device from the pocket. Sounds groovy.... In addition, a handy retractable headphone unit has been built directly into the garment to help prevent tangles and efficiently manage the earphone wires.

Now we assume all of this will be detachable, if they have any intentions of letting you wash your jeans! Then again, jeans do look best when never, ever washed, so who knows.

Of Bollywood tailors and star waist sizes

Last week i worked on a fashion styling assignment. The project involved styling a set of 6 heavily embroidered kanjivaram sarees for the photoshoot of a South Indian saree brand called Seemati. The model was Indian tele/ theatre actress Mandira Bedi.

The shoot went off without a hitch, and we managed to achieve the right look courtesy some mighty creative draping and a few blouses and corsets i got tailored from Mandira's tailor.

Located in the bylanes of a Mumbai suburb is the workshop of the man. Having reached there post a long day of fabric sourcing, i was looking to breeze in, explain the styles, hand over the material and vamoosh! After going back and forth on a few styling details, the man launched into delivering me a) the story of his life and b) his extended resume.

While i was pleased to know that he's worked with the likes of Shah Rukh Khan, Sridevi, Karishma Kapoor, Rani Mukherjee and the lot, i was unable to evoke the kind of response he was probably expecting to his revelations.

At one point he thrust in my face the photos of a cross dressed SRK, as taken during the filming of 'Duplicate'. He proudly pointed out how his corset had aided the Khan in flaunting a life-like cleavage (which admittedly looked pretty real) and helped draw in his waist from an ungainly 34" to a womanly 25". He also hastened to add he'd performed magic in the same vein to reel in the expansive waistline of the original Indian bhangra man Daler Mehendi.

I must admit the man's pieces fit like a dream, and were wonderfully finished as well. Maybe i ought to call him to say so and boost his spirits :)

How the Runway Took Off

Came across this interesting piece by Amanda Fortini at Slate.com. It's a brief history of the fashion show.

Fashion scholars have penned histories of the high heel, the corset, and the little black dress, but no one has yet written a definitive history of the fashion show. The omission is curious. The problem may be that the fashion show, like any performative enterprise, is by nature ephemeral. Or perhaps it's that the fashion crowd, always in pursuit of the next thing, lacks the archival impulse: Why hash over yesterday's clothes? Whatever the reason, as Valerie Steele, chief curator and director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, told me: "The topic of fashion shows remains to find its historian."

Read the full article here.

'Geisha' fashion takes hold in the US

Products associated with big-budget Hollywood film 'Memoirs of a Geisha' are already hitting the stores even before the movie hits theaters. The items inspired by this movie are made of rich velvet and satin and invoke a world of luxury. In a confluence of art and commerce, the romantic epic depicting a young girl blossoming into a legendary geisha has also become a style - one found in Banana Republic, Bath & Body Works, and high-end department stores. Based on Arthur Golden's bestselling novel, "Memoirs of a Geisha" tells the story of a young girl who was taken from her home and sold into slavery to a renowned geisha house. She transforms as she learns the arts of the geisha, including dance and music, wearing kimono, and elaborate makeup and hair. The film acknowledges that her life is sometimes dark. But what shines through on the big screen are the colors and costumes, images nothing short of glamorous.

The Banana Republic limited-edition collection appeared in select stores and online in November. It includes a silk floral kimono top ($88), Asian tassel necklaces ($58), and a satin kimono dress ($168). At Bath & Body Works a special display is dedicated to products such as a Rice Face Wash ($32), Flower Petal Mask ($35), and Shimmer Powder with Crushed Pearls ($38). The products can also be found online and in stores such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Sephora.

Fashion Resolutions for 2006

Ever wonder why most new year’s resolutions never work? Because they feel more like 'to-do' lists and 'have to's' than they do an exciting year ahead. Using resolutions as a means to reprimand yourself is the quickest way to have them backfire. Use them instead to set goals for ways in which you want to improve and in ways you know are achievable as well.

If your New Year's fashion resolutions feel unmotivating, uninspiring and like something you 'should' do vs. something you really 'want' to do, drop them right now and decide you are going to learn a whole new way of creating and experiencing the kind of wardrobe you really want.

To get you started, I’m sharing a few of my personal resolutions.

Here goes:

OUT WITH THE OLD - IN WITH THE NEW

Resolution 1: I will lay to rest my well-worn favourites.

Know when to lay your clothes to rest! Yes, you love that denim jacket that is way out of date, and those pointed toe pumps that you wore in the 9^th grade, but time moves on and so must you. I know the attachment one can develop for a favourite piece of clothing or accessory.

It surely is most delightful, to have a few such items and wear them as often as you can and feel utterly at ease. But, there comes a time when that cherished items shows signs of grave wear and just ends up looking frumpy and tacky.

That’s an opportune time to make changes that match the change in you! I know, it can be tough, but allow yourself to hang onto the past for a month or two post retiring it and then give it away. Even clothes have a life span.

Resolution 2: I will junk the clothes that do no fit and those I never wear.

Yep, it sure is amazing. You hang something in your closet long enough and it shrinks two sizes! Try on your sport jacket, blazer or suit jacket and fasten the middle button. If a vent pulls, a pocket tugs or the jacket appears to grow love handles before your eyes, give the jacket away to someone less fortunate.

Let the excess baggage go. Not only does it bog down your fashion flight, it severely takes up cupboard space! Ditch any clothes, accessories, make-up and beauty products that you don’t use, will never use, should never have bought, are old, faded, are not flattering and are taking up precious space.

Sort through your accessories. See what works with the clothes you wear now, and make note of what you need to buy to complement the rest of your wardrobe. More often than not, it’s the little things that can pull together an outfit.

Try a new eye shadow, blush or lip colour each season. As for the boys, try a new colour or pattern, fabric or colour combination. It’s one thing to have a signature color; it’s another to get stuck in a rut.

Resolution 3: I resolve to not be lazy when it comes to developing my own style.

Most of us have definitely added “travel more” in capital letters to our resolutions. To make that work for your wardrobe, resolve that when traveling to a new city, part of the city, or new country, you visit the local bazaar or flea market and try out the traditional gear!

Be critical as to what suits your figure and pick up accessories that co-ordinate with the outfit and would fit in with the rest of your wardrobe.

You needn’t get down to wearing saris or waistcoats if you never have! But a touch of ingenuity can turn a sari into a beautiful chudidar-kurta set or a stole into a beautiful wrap. Guys can additionally work with handcrafted accessories like leather shoes, bags, ties and stoles.

A girl friend of mine wears an Omani men’s head dress, as a stole. It looks awesome due to its sheer exotic colour and stripe story. Work that mind’s eye!

Resolution 4: I will play that dream role today!

So you've always secretly admired artists, writers and sculptors for their creative style? Or have always wanted to dress like an Indian demi-god or goddess, elegant in earthy printed kurtas and draped stoles? Ask yourself what stops you. And then go out and live it.

Check out the 'mix and match' sections of departmental stores or visit the likes of Fabindia, People Tree, OMO, and Anokhi to get yourself some ethnic togs. Enlist friends, family, sales people or stylists to help you achieve your goals.

The start of a brand new year is the perfect time for reinvention. That touch of innovation at the start of the year can infuse freshness and a new perspective into all aspects of life.

Resolution 5: I will only buy clothes that I love and that make me feel good.

They say the best way to forget all your troubles is to wear tight shoes! Some guys who want baggy jeans simply buy them two sizes too big, then hitch them up in gathers on a wide belt (sounds familiar?). But fashion maths doesn't add up like that. Instead, buy jeans in your size that are cut in a 'comfort fit'. That's the only way to assure the correct proportions.

Promise yourself you will be kind to your body and sole(s) this year, and choose only those pieces of that fit well, don’t pull, tug, oddly gather or itch. Imagine the amount of time you save from fussing, frowning, tugging and limpingover ill-fitting shoes and clothes.

Comfortable clothes give you more time and energy to be yourself. Not to mention a huge boost in confidence.

Resolution 6: I will find ways to enjoy building my personal style.

Sophisticated doesn’t mean boring. For example a tie can be both stylish and flamboyant, if chosen in subtle but fresh colours and textures.

Mix it up. College blokes can put a favourite hooded sweatshirt under a corduroy jacket. Ladies, pair a knee length colourfully patterned kurta with your jeans and throwon a jacket!

I have this lovely military style beige twill jacket I sometimes wear over a vibrant green kurta and deep
blue jeans. Tres chic, if I may say so myself! Over new years, I donned said jacket over a flapper style strappy sequined top (see pic) and black trousers. I was thankful not to be swept away amid the prevailing sea of black.

Resolution 7: I resolve to always attempt to shop smartly.

No matter what your budget, whether you’re more likely to hit the sales and export surplus stores or are sure to be seen at the hippest boutiques, make sure you shop responsibly. After all what’s the point in stuffing one’s wardrobe with clothes that are badly cut, finished or sewn?

Resolve to not be a sucker for the razzle-dazzle. Develop a critical eye for quality and tuck your wallet away when faced with something pricy you desire but won’t get much wear out of.

Direct the urge to splurging mainly onto necessities like lingerie (yes, don’t be miserly there), comfortable shoes and a few pieces of precious jewellery.

Try not to overspend on fashion and accessories when shopping with friends! It’s easy to get caught up with what they’re checking out and transition quickly from window/budget shopping to the real thing.

Have yourself a wonderful year ahead!

Fishing for kitsch

India Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Bangkok Fashion Week, Miami Fashion Week, Fish Fry for Reebok and now a flagship store - designer Manish Arora has done enough last year to be in the news constantly.

His style has been termed one of Bollywood meets Cirque de Soleil; a constellation of riotous colours and shapes that transport one on a journey through the Far East, stopping in India, Thailand, Japan and China without a moment to catch one's breath. And he's been known to display a fear of minimalism; with each surface of fabric in his collections over run with prints and embellishments. Possibly indicative of why he chooses to hit the fashion headlines with such regularity.

In recent times the designer launched his flagship store at Lodhi Colony, New Delhi. The interiors of the store as we hear is spread over two levels, and decidely follows Arora's kitsch style. Tiles with multi coloured flowers sourced from every nook and corner of the country cover the floor, and change tones and patterns throughout the store. Some of the walls are adorned with tiles bearing images of religious icons and are embellished with attractive patterns like polka dots and butterflies. The store is set to house three labels - Manish Arora, Fish Fry and the soon to be launched Get Laid by Manish Arora.

A modest Arora was overheard saying: "I always work extremely hard and that's what you can see in the store as well. I'm elated with the way it has emerged."

In the News: Reebok and Fish Fry

You make your own garam masala, eschew cappuccinos for chai and think Bollywood dance classes are the height of chic. Now buy the shoes.

Last November, Reebok released its first-ever couture sneaker collection; to design them, it selected New Delhi's most outlandish couturier, 33-year-old Manish Arora. Retailing at up to $500 a pair in India (and considerably more in New York City), Reebok's Fish Fry range reflects the explosive use of color and kitsch for which Arora is fast becoming known.

The most intricate of his 12 designs uses embossed suede, rhinestones and crystals.

School of Frock

Style.com just came out with a neat 'Fashion Yearbook', to check who made the style grade in 2005. The 'School of Frock' as they've cleverly termed it flashes back into 2005 bestowing awards as delightful as 'Cutest Couple' and oddly enough 'Best Tan'. While Galliano won the 'Most Theatrical' title hands down, the '2-gether 4-ever' honour was conferred on that imitable duo Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana. Gwen Stefani was voted 'Most Popular'. Wonder how that sits with the new lady of glam punk.

Most Popular: Gwen Stefani

In staging the runway show for her spring 2006 L.A.M.B. ready-to-wear collection, Gwen Stefani applied a technique she had mastered on her smash solo album, Love. Angel. Music. Baby. She incorporated several styles—chola girl, Rasta, Daisy Buchanan, Maria von Trapp—into one catchy whole. Rappers, mall rats, fashioneditors—no one, it seems, can resist Gwen's charms. Next up for this multitasker? Her first baby, with husband Gavin Rossdale, due in 2006.

Most Theatrical: John Galliano

No contest here, of course. Fashion's favorite impresario turned July's Dior Haute Couture presentation into one for the history books. To mark Christian Dior's 100th birthday, the showman conjured the spirits of a young Master Dior and his maman, who entered a magical mist-laden landscape in a horse-drawn Edwardian carriage. By contrast, Galliano's spring '06 show for his own label, a stirring procession of gigolos, tattooed sailors, and bearded transvestites, was a mere divertissement.

Class Jock: Madonna

While critics debate whether Madonna has regained her musical mojo with November's Confessions on a Dance Floor, we can emphatically report that Madge retains firm control of her abs and thighs and biceps. Dusting herself off after a midsummer equestrian accident, the 47-year-old yoga enthusiast did some serious strutting in the "Hung Up" video, making Gen Y's pop starlets look like the soft, pampered brats they are.

Best Hair: Orlando Pita

Stylist of stars (Naomi, Kirsten, and Madonna), shows, and shoots, Orlando Pita is now available for regular-old haircuts at his salon, Orlo, in Manhattan's Meatpacking District. But before you rush to book an appointment, know that an 80-minute session runs $800. Too pricey? Nearby rival Sally Hershberger is a relative bargain at $600.

Comeback Kid: Kate Moss

It was the fastest turnaround since Steve Jobs rescued Apple. Yes, Kate Moss lost a slew of lucrative contracts after her drug scandal. But since coming out of an Arizona rehab clinic, she's bagged new campaigns with Longchamp and Stella McCartney, not to mention landed on the covers of Vanity Fair and Paris Vogue. The words printed on Alexander McQueen's T-shirt when he took a bow at his October show clearly spoke for the whole fashion community: "We love you Kate."