by Merril Diniz for Rediff.com
This question was one I was hoping to tackle here on the blog, and as I hopped over to Rediff.com, I found they'd gotten Didier Grumbach, Chairman of the Fédération Française de la Couture (French Association of Couture) to reveal all.
The Fédération Française de la Couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode was established in 1973. It derives from the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture created in 1868. So to say that Didier Grumbach is a prominent figure in the world of international fashion is putting it lightly. And it is key to note that he was present at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, that commenced in Delhi the other day.
So it doesn't get much better than this. If you aspire to someday be the toast of the fashion cognoscenti, with an empire to call your own, then listen up and listen good as Didier Grumbach reveals some gems about what works in the international market and how to build your brand. This is what he had to say…
A designer must not be influenced by anyone else. "He has a message that is totally his own. He creates something that doesn't exist in the world, which becomes international." Didier quotes the example of French designer Jean Paul Gaultier who didn't sell a piece from his first show. "He was weird. Of course, he thought his clothes were very wearable. In a year or two, it became a trend and he built a repertoire. Because of such a repertoire, the brand survives even after the departure of the designer."
Didier also mentions designers like Chanel and Balienciaga, whose brands live on even today. He calls Gaultier an artist, whose designs brought out his own personality. This is one approach to designing.
Designing for an audience
The other approach is to adjust designs to a specific territory and with a target audience in mind. He stresses that being a world-class designer is not just about how many orders you get. "You can be very successful in selling. You can also make a fantastic impact and get few orders. To build your brand, these two things are complementary."
India on the international ramp
According to Didier, there are no nationalities in the world of fashion and India must be shown to the world in the right way. "The way we will look at fashion with your Indian culture is something that will add tthe world community the way Japan has succeeded in changing the way we work and feel. We dress in a Japanese manner without even knowing it, thinking it is part of the everyday world," says Didier.
He quotes the examples of Japanese designers Kenzo, who opened his first boutique in 1970, and Issey Miyake, who first showcased his collection in Paris in 1973. Eventually, both went on to make a mark on the international map.
Photograph: Jewella C Miranda
