The Emperor's New Clothes

I and most of the Indian fashion fraternity have been watching with interest the progression of designer Anuj Sharma. With a radical, conceptual view to garment-construction, it's always interesting to see what his next point of departure would be.

While he's appears to me a reticent, conscious artist, his recent collection titled 'Knot for you' is almost too quiet in its offerings and left me wanting.

Revolving around strategically placed knots that bound, shaped, draped and formed the Grecian, waif-like, dreamy, ethereal silhouettes, the only other additions were the slim black ribbons that held the drapes at the shoulders.

While i marvel at his consistency with staying true to concept, and the media' enjoy his every offering, most of the design school pack, like myself, were not as charmed with the overtly pared down quality of his look. We were thinking "...interesting, but that's more like a week's worth of draping assignments. What's so special?"

In my opinion, the garments looked unfinished and lacking in detail - an incomplete vision. They also looked much too fragile to be truly wearable. A touch of controlled, tonal beading on the ribbon details would have lifted the overall effect considerably, giving it that finishing touch. Linings too might have been a welcome addition.

His debut collection, on the other hand, saw the thinking man present a line of dresses fashioned from de-constructed shirts. And I personally thought it was very well executed. With misplaced sleeves and collars appearing on women's wear as detailing and embellishments along with drapes and cowls for mini and halter dresses.

The 'Sunday Market' theme came across beautifully with subtle and intelligent styling in the form of bicycle bells for finger rings and metal lunch boxes for handbags. Gladiator style shoes completed the look.

Lack of footwear in his 3 collections since, as well as his disdain for meaty detail and embellishment, remind me of the fable the Emperor's New Clothes, wherein the clothes were mainly in the Emperor's mind.

Points of inspiration - Nalanda Bhandari does it again

This is part of a series of impressions from the Spring Summer 09 fashion weeks here in India.

To start on an unsavory note, as they say eat a frog first thing... designer Nalanda Bhandari's Spring Summer '09 collection was reminiscent of a couple of diverse international designers. While most of her collection had that "familiar" feel to it, a couple of styles jumped right out at me and not for the right reasons.

Exhibit A: While Nalanda poses with her showstopper in this lovely shimmery grey floor length dress, i had the feeling i needed to pinch myself for I could have sworn I'd seen this outfit at Elie Saab's Fall Winter 2007 Couture show and the resemblance is for all to see.

Exhibit B is this plum and fuschia mini dress which looks remarkably similar to the dress alongside which is from Anna Sui's Spring Summer 09 collection. A match on colour, silhouette and lattice-work embroidery. The only difference being the neck-line.

While I'd like to know what "inspires" Nalanda to do this time and again, i'd like her to understand that the global design fraternity is watching and such blatant acts of plagiarism will not go unnoticed. And while Indian fashion design and designers are making their mark on the world scenario, such acts mar the hard work being put in by everyone else.

WGSN turns 10

Worth Global Style Network is celebrating 'Ten Years of Creative Intelligence' with this microsite to share key trend analysis collated over the past 10 years, as well as to attract more customers.

As those in the fashion and design business know, WGSN has trend forecasters working tirelessly, spotting trends and innovations the world over, in silhouette, form, technique and fabric and is a veritable treasure trove of information on what to expect in the most avante-garde circles of fashion in seasons to come.

It's a different thing that their services cost a king's ransom. So dig into these micro-offerings of major trend directions of the past and learn your fashion lessons.