Style Asylum

Sign of times to come?

2010-06-22T12:21:00.001+05:30

"After a crisis, a new era always starts. It's going to be a very good moment for creativity. For couture, it's going to go back to being very exclusive." - Givenchy couturier Riccardo Tisci

Photo from Givenchy show S/S 2010

The house of Givenchy has announced it is going to stop couture catwalk shows in favour of individual client and editor appointments. The label's couturier Riccardo Tisci will condense the collection into 10 looks and present them in an 18th century town house on the Place Vendome in Paris.

The vision is to make couture even more special than it is. Seemingly the designer wants to move away from the present catwalk scenario and go back to the early years of couture when showings were private and closeted affairs.

Future collections will be unveiled at the label's couture salons where mini catwalk shows will be held.

Wonder if other couture houses will follow Tisci's lead.

RELATED: Givenchy's spring/summer 2010 couture show
From: Vogue.co.uk

Paris in 2 weeks!

2010-03-02T23:36:00.000+05:30

Now to unveil what's been keeping me away from Style Asylum, well that would be two things related to my work in fashion...!

ONE is, i've begun my own line of embellished accessories. Photos and more goss soon!

TWO is, in less than 2 weeks i'm going to be in living and working in Paris (only the mecca of classical European fashion) for a month! The back STORY: So i heard of this exchange program for fashion professionals sometime in September of 2009, applied and got picked!

So between November 09 and February 10, i had french lessons, felicitations and other programs of orientation along with my team.

The jour du depart (day of departure) is almost here. I'm organising my affairs, purchasing gifts and dreaming of jolie (pretty) Paris.

More soon... :) and soon to be writing you from Paris.

Bon nuit mes amies.. Bien dormi!
(Good night my friends.. Sleep well!)

50

2010-02-22T00:20:00.000+05:30

Style Asylum is 50 posts old today! I can't for the life of me recall how old SA is, but i just noticed this is my 50th post and quite a swell journey it has been.

To add flavour to an already tangy taste of fashion, i received this email in my inbox the other day:

"Hey Meera,

My name is ..... and I am currently completing my final semester at Michigan State University in Public Relations. Being a fashion major (from my undergrad), as one of my projects I am required to follow three blogs pertaining to fashion and style and that's how I came across your blog. You blog had a sense of fashion integrated with reality, moreover it is an Indian Blog which for me is rare and fresh and therefore, I wanted to seek your permission to quote it as a part of my research paper as how blogs are changing the face of social media today. I will be an active participant on your blog and would take down my observations. You and your blog will be fully credited and I am also willing to submit a copy of my paper once I am done writing it. I hope you are fine with it. I once again thank you for putting your blog out there for enthusiasts like me.

Sincerely..."

This message brought back to me the fact that mine is one of the few independent Indian blogs on fashion & design and having said that i know for a fact that most of the fashion blogs out there are by folk who love, adore, crave, think, breathe fashion... but not many of them actually work in the fashion business. So, thank you very much, we are pleased to host you in the asylum to style and fashion. Come one come all... there is so much more and new to be reveled and revealed. :)

I hope very much February is treating you right. xoxo...

Louis Vuitton core values - or "Where will life take youu?"

2010-01-22T16:52:00.000+05:30

i love this video by LV... the message just blew me away. came at the right time, broadened my perspective on a journey i am soon to undertake. :)

a journey shows you where you fit in the world....

Belt it out

2010-01-14T15:04:00.000+05:30

Another fashion piece done by me for Femina.in. Appeared Dec 30th. Posting the article in full.

Belt it out

From functional accessory to style mantra, the humble waist belt has come a long way. Thinking way beyond leather, this chic accessory has taken numerous avatars today. From Rhine-stoned to wrapped and stretch, fashion designer Meera Mittal hooks you on to the new forms of the waist-cinching device.

Waist belts have been en vogue since the Bronze Age. That’s a pretty long time you’ll agree. So what is it that has made belts stick? The right belt cinches the waist, giving that instant tummy tuck and lends the wearer a trimmer appearance. They hold up pants, stylishly clasp onto dresses and are useful to carry armaments into battle. Extremely worthy attributes!

In a modern context, wider belts look more fashionable on tops and dresses while helping to conceal a broad waist and skinny belts look better on pants and corporate looks like pencil skirts and shirt dresses. Patent leather is cool for both day and evening, provided the colour is neutral (read black, white, and grey, brown, beige). You can pop an outfit with a coloured belt. Keep it one solid colour or be warned you’ll look like a school art & craft project.
Trend wise belts look best worn high to mid waist. Low waist looks are not for belting.

Bling it on
Embellished clinchers are all the rage. A sprinkling of crystals, a cluster of diamantes, rows of metal studs or a buckle patterned out of stones, nothing quite says evening like these.
When sporting a sparkly belt it’s wise to keep the dress played down on shine. Rich jewel colours look classier than bright white crystal.

Stretch it out
We all know the 80s style elasticized belt; remember the big black ones with the cheesy buckles? Well, update those memory files with refreshing, contemporary looks; part abacus, part accessory. Other elasticized looks include the elastic-patent leather hybrids. These give you all style of patent with the comfort of stretch. No more fear of post dinner groaning and tautness.

Tie it up
One of my favourite kinds is the obi belt. This Japanese import is traditionally seen on kimonos and wraps around the waist supporting the back snugly. Today obi belts are seen worn all over the world, by women looking for that special Oriental touch to their style. The secret to wearing the obi right is all in the wrapping and knotting. A neat and clean bow goes a long way. Satin, metallic finish or printed obi belts are a whole lot of fun.
So whether your look is workforce diva or homemaker fashionista, waist belts are a budget friendly fashion addition that can perk up almost any wardrobe. Give it a try and develop your own style.

All photos courtesy and copyright Meera Mittal

Pooch Fashion: hot off the beaches of Goa

2010-01-04T18:41:00.003+05:30

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!! May 2010 be your best ever!

I brought in the new year in India's beach capital Goa and while browsing through the beach shops at Baga, i spotted this pooch named Mallu no less, flaunting what could be the next big thing in canine fashion. Lol...

Stole for a leash anyone??... :) only in India...

Courting the Coat - on coats and jackets this season

2009-12-03T13:19:00.003+05:30

Another one of my pieces for Femina.in. This time on the necessity of the season, the coat and jacket.

Femina is one of India's oldest Women's magazine. I recall it from when i was little. According to Wikipedia,

Femina is a magazine, published fortnightly in India. It is owned by Worldwide Media, a 50:50 joint venture between BBC Worldwide and The Times Group. It is primarily a women's magazine and features articles on Relationships, Beauty & Fashion, Cuisine, and Health & Fitness. It also features articles on celebrities and various cultural facets of Indian women.

Femina was first published in July 1959. It has organized and sponsored the Femina Miss India beauty pageant since 1964. From 1994 to 1999, it also sponsored the Femina Look of the Year contest to send an Indian contestant to the Elite Model Look competition.

A little piece of history right there.

Green Design: Clothing with a Conscience

2009-11-24T17:04:00.003+05:30

I was recently asked to write on fashion, textile and design by the team at Femina.in. I love writing these pieces in my spare time. It gives me as a fashion professional a voice and greater insight in probing and writing on a subject.

The first piece i wrote for them was this one on Green Clothing or Ethical Fashion. The article lists relevant Indian stores and manufacturers in the green fashion space.

Let me know what you think.

Alice

Interviewed

2009-09-05T00:39:00.008+05:30

Recently i was e-interviewed on this Yahoo Group Creativegarh. It was a kind of get to know one another scenario.

The interviewer is Navin Pangti and i thought some of the questions he posed were really worth pondering over. Thus the post.

Creativegarh: What does being 'creative' mean to you?

Me: Being creative to me means allowing my neurons to weave magical pictures in my head... to connect afresh each day, giving me insights, ideas, answers and inspiration. Being creative to me is: Finding answers, posing questions and crafting things of beauty, meaning and value to me.

CG: Can you give us a brief overview of your life as a creative person?

Me: Wow, some question that! :) Brevity, hmm...

Well, I've always felt like a creative being. My mom noticed that about me early on and encouraged me to colour and draw and make things by hand. The mechanics of things interested me, as in how one can make the windows and doors of a doll house open and shut, and how things (2D material like fabric) can be moulded to fit a 3D form. Fabric, colour, light and motion have always attracted me. I think colour, light and movement are the earliest things we are designed to respond to. I've always been something of a recluse, though most would not recognize me as that, and design, art, science and stuff like making up song lyrics as I sang, kept me absorbed.

One thing that I can't do with gay abandon is paint. A blank canvas used to scare me growing up. That is something I need to give another shot. I have the deepest regard for artists who have found their voices and means to self-expression in this medium.

The progress to designing clothing was very instinctive, and before I knew what it was termed, I had decided I would like to work with moulding fabric as per my wishes, pretty much all my life. NIFT happened and I was onto and into a career in Fashion Design.

More than fashion, it is design that engages me. The so-called glamour and clamour don't leave much of an impression on me. And at one point during my career this mindlessness almost made me question whether the industry as it is, is a space I am meant to be in. Presently I'm past that milestone on introspection highway.

CG: What are some of the ways, besides your main, chosen creative field, that you express your creativity?

Me: Well with my love of colour and light, the visual media, photography is something I really enjoy. In the coming months I plan to upgrade to a better camera, which will allow me greater functionality as well as quality to creating images.

Then there is interior design... which I've mainly explored in my own home. From choosing colours and deciding on colour-blocking techniques, to designing beds, closets, seating spaces and more, I've done a good many projects.

I love designing shoes, and was solely into that during Hindi lessons in school. As part of my career I've done some shoe design work as well, but I'd love to do more and have people wear and enjoy my designs.

A recent love is designing costume jewelry... but more about that baby as it develops.

I've done a fair bit of writing, mainly on fashion and style for publications like Rediff.com and tips4me.com, to the Complete Wellbeing Magazine. I write a fashion blog at http://styleasylum.blogspot.com.

Oh and I've been dancing since childhood, from when I'd practice and put on little dance items for my parents... lol, patient them, and later choreographing and performing dance pieces with friends. I've learnt a little bit of both classical and other forms, and instruct in one which is a form of contemporary dance. I teach a batch of architecture students as part of their extended curriculum apart from my own intermittent workshops.

CG: What or who are some of the inspirational influences on your creativity?

Me: I can't say there are any one or two influences. I think my real inspiration comes from a divine source; from some space within, the universe perhaps! That is how I know it to be. In the outer world, anything unexpected and out of the ordinary can be the spark. The colours in a painting, origami motifs, a culture, fabrics and textures, all things natural; just about anything can be the springboard.

CG: What are 'those little things you do' to keep yourself in the creative flow everyday?

Me: One essential I cannot go without is my practice of Pranayams which I 'religiously' do every day. Another is to keep my funny bone in shape. Laughter keeps the mind and heart open and lighter. On particularly stressful days I get myself a dose of Mr. Bean before bed. I will sometimes address a project in positive terms like 'the awesome Ladakh travelogue', or 'the gorgeous floral collection' in my head and keep the notes I made on it close at hand. These inspire and keep me on track. Staying organized helps a lot as well.

CG: Have you found ways to integrate your creative and 'working' time and tasks and if so, how?

Me: Well, working in fashion helps to a great extent, (I get to sketch and colour and work with beads and baubles!), but fulfilling my varied creative interests can sometimes be a challenge. As I realize and read, the work-life balance is the biggest conundrum facing Indian professionals today. I use weekends, vacations and the odd sabbatical to make time for my other interests.

CG: How successful have you been able to find a balance between creative satisfaction and social acceptance? If so, how?

Me: Social acceptance has not been too great a challenge in my career. Probably cause fashion design as a profession is pretty well accepted and established. I have had to assert myself some, and set certain boundaries, and once that?s done I find doing what I feel like is mainly about putting in the time and energy. My parents are pretty darn supportive. In my case creative satisfaction and social acceptance aren't interdependent so to speak.

CG: What new idea or area of creativity has inspired you recently? How did you become aware of this new inspiration?

Me: I think we need customized cupcake-icing parlours. Lol... ok seriously, well with the recession having set in and the effects of it showing on the retail market, I'm looking at developing a line of fashion accessories and later clothing which is chic, stunning and VFM. I know I'd like that. And I'd like to tap consumers who think likewise. I love statement necklaces, and brooches and t-shirts and I want to offer these at great prices while thoroughly tripping myself out making them!

CG: What words would you offer to other creative people to inspire and encourage them?

Me: Ok, i'm going to enumerate these:

Do what brings you joy, what excites you. Learn to transmit that energy via your work. It makes a difference. That's something i'm working on.
Stay true to your vision. The difference between people who call themselves creative and who really are creative is the presence or absence of vision and original thought.
For a creative person the worst place to be in is the state of non-creation. Give your creative energies their outlets. It's okay to be a bit afraid when taking that creative leap. Get over it.
And finally, ask and you shall receive. Learn to ask for what you want, but before that get to know what you want. That takes some meditation.

CG: What do you have to say about Creativegarh and its efforts?

Me: Exceedingly commendable. CG is a space that's grown to become a part of my inbox and life to quite an extent. I keep coming back to it and hope to be a greater part of it in times to come. CG is a space for ideas, idea people, sharing and encouragement, inspiration and opportunities.

CG: Where can people have a look at your work and contact you? If you have a website, please do post the URL. Do you blog? if yes, can you share the URL(s)? A small note of why and how you blog would be very helpful.

Me: I'm in the process of setting up my own website. Meanwhile, I blog, but not very often. My design blog is at http://styleasylum.blogspot.com. Your feedback is welcome. I blog: a) when I have the time and b) when something really knocks my socks off. I rather not do a half-hearted job of it.

CG: Any online profiles/links (facebook, linkedin, twitter, flickr, ryze, etc.) you would like to share with other cg members?

Me: Not really... shared a bunch already. I am on all these networking platforms though. Good god.

So there you have it. :) More updates soon...

Spotlight: Designer Kate Cusack

2009-05-18T08:34:00.018+05:30

Meet Kate Cusack a Brooklyn based designer-costumer who creates jewelry pieces and sculptural work from unusual material. Unusual material you say? Yes, metal-tooth zippers and plastic wrap if you will.

According to Kate herself, she makes costumes and wearable art. And that's just the term (wearable art) that can be employed to describe her line of Zipper Jewelry. It recently caught my eye on fellow blogger Choeny Wagma's blog, where i can safely say i was immediately taken by the sheer genius of her work. Made with a unique and contemporary design aesthetic Kate's pieces are truly one-of-a-kind.

Kate's zipper jewelry was first noticed in 2002, while she worked as a window-dresser, creating five Marie-Antoinette-style wigs made entirely from plastic wrap for Tiffany & Co.'s 5th Avenue store. The lady in the visual merchandising department who had hired Kate admired the zipper pin she'd affixed to her jacket so Kate made the second zipper pin as a thank you.

Since 2003 she took to making jewelry like bracelets, necklaces, brooches and pins out of metal-tooth zippers.

She points out:

"It’s ironic that most fashion designers try to hide or disguise zippers in their creations. However, I love zippers’ shiny metal teeth and I want to show off, not hide, their sparkle and their sinuous flexibility."

These handmade pieces sell for between $70 -$400, with custom pieces going up to $1000.

Zipper jewelry can be bought at Kate Cusack's Etsy shop.

Packaging love!

2009-03-19T18:34:00.005+05:30

I simply love this 'Knickers of the Week' pack packaging idea by Stella McCartney!

Based on the concept of the knicker drawer, this delightful pack comes emblazoned with Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday all the way up to Sunday, ending with 'Bits and Bobs' beyond.

The lingerie inside of it isn't bad either.

All in all i think it makes for a lovely gift idea (for someone close...), and i can see it fit right into my wardrobe alongside my real underwear drawer! Can't you? :)

Sustainable Silk - a possibility

2009-02-05T13:44:00.007+05:30

This is really interesting... young designer Elsbeth Joy Nielson from the Netherlands has discovered a way of producing silk without killing silkworms. As per the norm silkworms are thrown into boiling water when they cocooned themselves - which is the end of life.

The designer has been experimenting with an idea of sustainable silk production: before starting the cocooning she puts the silkworm on a shaped piece of carton board which is held by a stick that is centered on the downside. The silkworm then starts trying to escape from this platform - without success of course as it fall down at the edges of the carton. In the two days of crossing the carton in the search of an escape the silkworm so spins a random net of silk. The result is a very delicate texture made of silk which you can see in the picture. After this procedure the puts the silkworm back, lets him spin his cocoon and become a silk-spinner butterfly.

The only problem is that the butterfly has been breeded to produce silk for centuries and now his wings are not big enough that it could make him fly. Well - maybe biotechnology can help on that problem.

The resulting scarf demonstrates the fabric's exquisite beauty.

Via Roger Live.

Gap and Pantone T-Shop

2009-01-28T17:02:00.006+05:30

Earlier this month G ap and Pantone set up a pop-up shop on 5th Ave in the company’s ‘concept store’ space.

Combining the popularity of Gap t-shirts and the prowess of the worldwide color coder’s energetic shades, Gap and Pantone announced the opening of a color-filled t-shirt shop in Gap’s rotating concept venue adjacent to its flagship store at 54th and 5th Ave.

The Gap & Pantone T-Shop will be open till Sunday, Feb. 8.

“We wanted to create an explosion of color and bring some warmth and optimism to our customers,” said Patrick Robinson, executive VP of design for Gap Adult and gapbody. Noble intentions those.

Pantone Inc. provides professional color standards for design industries. Each year, Pantone selects a “color of the year.” 2009’s color is PANTONE 14-0848 Mimosa, a warm, engaging yellow that Gap will spotlight with exclusive Mimosa tees available for purchase at the Gap & Pantone T-Shop.

Brand tie-ins such as this should hopefully help Gap out of the financial doldrums the company has been seeing in recent years. For Pantone it brings the concept of colour-coding, from the environs of design studios, to the consumers, and makes for a good exercise in brand-building.

As an aside, i'm looking forward to more instances of Pop-up Retail globally, and wonder when the Indian market would be ready for a concept such as that. For more on Pop-up Retail visit trendwatching.com.

Runway fashion

2009-01-21T16:16:00.016+05:30

For those not from within the fashion business, you would imagine that designers mainly pay painstaking attention to the clothes and hair and makeup looks they put together. But more-so now in recent years than ever before, designers spend a lot of time and energy working out every detail of the show, from music, to runway, to backdrop and lighting.

The runway forms a setting which supports, plays up and portrays a more complete vision of the collection on show.

Take a look at these interesting runways from a clutch of fashion weeks.

Wood chips strewn on the runway at the Ausländer show at Rio Fashion week Fall/Winter 09.
Photo Courtesy: Refinery29.com

Seen at Rio Fashion week Fall/Winter 09, this runway is a collage of passport size photographs.
Photo Courtesy: Refinery29.com

A roughly hewn wooden runway at Lanvin Spring 08.
Photo Courtesy: Piercemattiepublicrelations.com

In Delhi, designer Tarun Tahiliani goes temple-style with golden spires, lotus blossoms et al.
Photo Courtesy: Coutorture.com

Icicle-shaped chandeliers and a blue backdrop set the tone at Gaurav Gupta's Fall/Winter 08 show.
Photo Courtesy: Coutorture.com

In Mumbai, Sabyasachi Mukherjee goes regal with a burgundy velvet runway and ornate chandeliers. Fall/Winter 07.
Photo Courtesy: nj.com

Photo Courtesy: Refinery29.com

But the award for most original concept and execution has to go to designer brand Redley who's show at Rio Fashion week took place in the middle of a jungle on a mountaintop about an hour outside of the city. As lensman Pete Miszuk relates, "During the show there were huge butterflies floating everywhere in the air. It was completely surreal."

Wearable Peace

2009-01-20T01:53:00.006+05:30

I recently came across the work of Kali Arulpragasam, sister of rapper M.I.A and ex-ad executive who left the big game world of advertising to study jewelry design at Central Saint Martins London. She went on to create an edgy, avante garde jewelery line that highlights world issues through highly original pieces that push the traditional boundaries of form, design and reason.

Retailing under the London based label Superfertile I first caught sight of one of Kali's previous collections entitled 'Terrorism affects Tourism' while working on a jewelry project myself.

Intricately etched pieces which tell the story of countries torn by war and terrorism. Places we associate with strife and grief emblazoned and encapsulated on pendants for wearing, almost akin to armor.

In an interview to the New York Times, Kali of Sri Lankan origin voices, "There’s more to these countries than guys with guns standing in rubble."

"What are the plants like? What music are the kids listening to?" she asked and ventured to portray.

Images are hand-cut and plated together to create a mural in gold and silver: Haiti’s depicts children playing soccer under banana trees; Sudan’s shows cows and fishermen.

Some customers, Arulpragasam says, have taken to hanging them on the wall. “That’s the irony of it,” she mused. “People are treasuring them, while the actual nations are being destroyed.”

The necklaces, $800 to $1,000, can be custom-ordered from superfertile.com.

Trendspotting: Hemline Economics

2009-01-12T15:04:00.010+05:30

I just read this piece on the New York Times website which i thought was an interesting trend deviation and thus worthy of sharing.

Bill Cunningham with the New York Times put together this multimedia trend spot on the fall in hem-lines observed on dresses and skirts on everyday women on the streets of Paris and New York.

"Revolutions to fashion usually begin because of world events. Will fashion history repeat the drastic hemline changes that followed the 1929 crash?" he ventures.

Above from left:

L'Wren Scott Headmistress wool dress, £1,830.51.

Donna Karan Diamanté cashmere dress, £1,323.
Thomas Wylde Madagascar silk dress, £628.43, all available at Net-a-Porter.com.

With photos shot over September 2008 into the New Year, Cunningham relates that this period appears much like the post-recession era of the 1930s, when hemlines plunged along with the downward spiral in global economy.

While younger women are still showing preference for the prevailing full skirted minis, with ample leg on display, the 30 somethings are unmistakably gravitating towards more modest hemlines that finish at the calf.

Above from left:
Wren Skating Skirt, about $275, available at Mick Margo and Thistle & Clover
A.P.C. Corduroy Full Skirt, $200, available at A.P.C. and La Garçonne
Karen Walker Wool Full Skirt, $365, available at Creatures of Comfort

What's different though is unlike the 30s, women now wear pants. Pants appear in the form of fall 08's favoured look of opaque tights worn under cropped jackets and coats. But again this look finds patronage with 'em young 'uns.

An interesting set of observations if any.... Take a look yourself and come back with musings.

Plantable Eco Calendar 2009

2009-01-08T16:19:00.015+05:30

I dig all things green (though i'm not as green as they come, oh well, i do have a few decades wherein to get my act together), and i love creative design. So whence the twain meet in terms of a Plantable Eco Calendar for 2009, i had to share et blog all about it.

The Plantable Eco Calendar, as it's makers the Botanical Paperworks company reveal is twelve months of completely plantable(!) pages made with 100% post-consumer waste and 100% recyclable into wildflowers. Notice the little seeds in there?!

Keeping track of the year with this 5 x 5 inch handmade plantable paper monthly desk calendar creates beauty and leaves nothing behind but flowers - and a completely reusable tin. When a month passes by simply plant the seed-embedded page and wait for wildflowers to grow. :)

Could it get more awesome?

Neon - while we can

2008-12-18T17:49:00.005+05:30

While colour and trend forecasters pinned neon brights as the hot colours this Fall, no one predicted the down turn in financial markets and the global terror gloom.

So while we're not very much in the mood for dressing in neon colours, we might as well feast on them with our senses, before we don the upcoming muted hues and matte material for Spring. So I've made a selection of some of my drool-worthy bright pieces.... scroll for more.

First up these gorgeous lime green & hot pink silk column-dresses Temperly London, really gives me goosebumps. I want to own 'em, wear 'em, sashay in 'em just plain live in 'em! Works of art i say.

Next up are the Tom Binns necklace and cuff. The neon colour gives the otherwise classic shapes a uniquely modern edge, while the silver & crystal accompaniments make a sight for sore eyes.

Marc Jacobs went all out with the Glitter shoulder bag. Crafted in hot metallic pink leather, the shoulder bag comes roomy for when you need to carry your world with you.

There's even a Plum colourway!

See more covetable neon looks? Give me a holler.

So if you thought neon was so 80s in a very passe manner, look again.

Sport Luxe Trend - Zipper up!

2008-11-14T16:23:00.007+05:30

One of the sport luxe trends for the present season is the metal zipper detail. Showing up on center fronts and center backs the world over, the fastener adds that edgy feel to an otherwise lady-like dress or skirt.

Case in point being she rbet coloured knee length dress by Mulberry (right) and the plum coloured Miu Miu Zip Front Bustier dress alongside.

But when i came across this witty pair of zipper puller inspired Zipper Charm Studs by Marc Jacobs simply knew this was a blog-worthy trend! I love it when designers add that touch of humour to their products as it really shows up the lighter side of fashion.

Spring Accessories - Shoes, rocks and more!

2008-11-05T17:11:00.003+05:30

While the sculptural and near architectural look for accessories has been in vogue from Fall '08, Balenciaga's new line of Spring Summer '09 accessories look inspired by furniture!
From the grain and colouring of the leather, the heel resembling the retro style in table legs and the platform looking like a cushy seat, and the white piped trim, I can only imagine what fun it must've been to put these together!Brit boy McQueen's jet crystal studded bootie is fashioned with a the heel from hell, not mildly reminiscent of a stake through the heart.
Speaking of crystals i love this necklace with the crystal cluster pendant by Aurélie Bidermann. Though a simpler chain as opposed to the chain-link would be more my style.

Plagiarise to Highlight Plagiarism?

2008-11-04T16:21:00.003+05:30

So guess what i did when it was brought to my notice that the fashion editor at Mumbai based tabloid journal Mid-day had made a strikingly similar article regarding Nalanda Bhandari's plagiarising ways, replete with explanations from the designer, to my post highlighting the same, I laughed a bemused little laugh at the irony of it all, shot off an email to the lady concerned and trawled her previous work.

With no past references to any international designers work, even with regard to the work of the Indian designers she regularly reviews, I can only imagine we both came up with the exact conclusions, except mine came oh about two weeks prior.

Oh well... the world keeps on turning.

P.S: Thanks for the heads-up though Bombaylives and for feeling my outrage P&P at High Heel Confidential.... appreciate it.

The Emperor's New Clothes

2008-10-30T16:00:00.011+05:30

I and most of the Indian fashion fraternity have been watching with interest the progression of designer Anuj Sharma. With a radical, conceptual view to garment-construction, it's always interesting to see what his next point of departure would be.

While he's appears to me a reticent, conscious artist, his recent collection titled 'Knot for you' is almost too quiet in its offerings and left me wanting.

Revolving around strategically placed knots that bound, shaped, draped and formed the Grecian, waif-like, dreamy, ethereal silhouettes, the only other additions were the slim black ribbons that held the drapes at the shoulders.

While i marvel at his consistency with staying true to concept, and the media' enjoy his every offering, most of the design school pack, like myself, were not as charmed with the overtly pared down quality of his look. We were thinking "...interesting, but that's more like a week's worth of draping assignments. What's so special?"

In my opinion, the garments looked unfinished and lacking in detail - an incomplete vision. They also looked much too fragile to be truly wearable. A touch of controlled, tonal beading on the ribbon details would have lifted the overall effect considerably, giving it that finishing touch. Linings too might have been a welcome addition.

His debut collection, on the other hand, saw the thinking man present a line of dresses fashioned from de-constructed shirts. And I personally thought it was very well executed. With misplaced sleeves and collars appearing on women's wear as detailing and embellishments along with drapes and cowls for mini and halter dresses.

The 'Sunday Market' theme came across beautifully with subtle and intelligent styling in the form of bicycle bells for finger rings and metal lunch boxes for handbags. Gladiator style shoes completed the look.

Lack of footwear in his 3 collections since, as well as his disdain for meaty detail and embellishment, remind me of the fable the Emperor's New Clothes, wherein the clothes were mainly in the Emperor's mind.

Points of inspiration - Nalanda Bhandari does it again

2008-10-26T20:25:00.006+05:30

This is part of a series of impressions from the Spring Summer 09 fashion weeks here in India.

To start on an unsavory note, as they say eat a frog first thing... designer Nalanda Bhandari's Spring Summer '09 collection was reminiscent of a couple of diverse international designers. While most of her collection had that "familiar" feel to it, a couple of styles jumped right out at me and not for the right reasons.

Exhibit A: While Nalanda poses with her showstopper in this lovely shimmery grey floor length dress, i had the feeling i needed to pinch myself for I could have sworn I'd seen this outfit at Elie Saab's Fall Winter 2007 Couture show and the resemblance is for all to see.

Exhibit B is this plum and fuschia mini dress which looks remarkably similar to the dress alongside which is from Anna Sui's Spring Summer 09 collection. A match on colour, silhouette and lattice-work embroidery. The only difference being the neck-line.

While I'd like to know what "inspires" Nalanda to do this time and again, i'd like her to understand that the global design fraternity is watching and such blatant acts of plagiarism will not go unnoticed. And while Indian fashion design and designers are making their mark on the world scenario, such acts mar the hard work being put in by everyone else.

WGSN turns 10

2008-10-14T17:31:00.001+05:30

Worth Global Style Network is celebrating 'Ten Years of Creative Intelligence' with this microsite to share key trend analysis collated over the past 10 years, as well as to attract more customers.

As those in the fashion and design business know, WGSN has trend forecasters working tirelessly, spotting trends and innovations the world over, in silhouette, form, technique and fabric and is a veritable treasure trove of information on what to expect in the most avante-garde circles of fashion in seasons to come.

It's a different thing that their services cost a king's ransom. So dig into these micro-offerings of major trend directions of the past and learn your fashion lessons.

Objects of Desire

2008-09-16T07:51:00.000+05:30

Burberry Prorsum

Albury necklace

£1,058.40

I've been, simply put, lusting after this necklace from the moment I laid eyes on it at Net-a-porter.com. It's simply exquisite!

Statement necklace indeed.

Now if only there weren't 4-digits on the price tag!

Are you a fashion entrepreneur?

2008-09-15T01:07:00.000+05:30

The British Council announces:

Young Fashion Entrepreneur (YFE) Award 2009

Apply now for the 2009 award!

The Young Fashion Entrepreneur award aims to champion and celebrate the importance of creative entrepreneurs working in the field of fashion. It seeks to showcase international innovation in fashion promotion, using the UK as the nexus for cultural, creative and commercial exchange.

Who can apply:

Entrepreneurs between 25 and 35 years working in any of the following sectors:

Fashion:

Fashion, textile, accessories or perfume design and production
Fashion promotion: shows, exhibitions, festivals, events
Fashion retail: buying, merchandising
Fashion product research, sourcing, supply chain management
Fashion marketing, PR, branding, journalism
Fashion publishing, communications, websites
Consultants providing specialist services in any of the areas outlined

We recognise that a finalist may be active as a fashion designer, but this should be secondary to their focus as an entrepreneur in the promotion of the fashion industry in their country. Artistic talent will not be factored into the judging procedure – finalists will be judged solely on the merit of their entrepreneurial abilities in the industry.

Before you apply, make sure you read the guidance notes.

Apply online or download the application form (Word doc)

Closing date: Friday 10 October 2008.

You can forward your application form and portfolio of selected works to:

“YFE”
Rwituja Gomes Mookherjee
Project Manager
British Council Division
17 Kasturba Gandhi Marg
New Delhi 110 001
T: +91 11 4149 7374

Or email it to yce.india@in.britishcouncil.org

For more information you can email rwituja.mookherjee@in.britishcouncil.org.

Spring Fever

2007-02-18T18:06:00.000+05:30

I was asked by the people over at InTouch India magazine to write them a piece for their 'Glamour' section. Their readers being mostly university students and young professionals I took up the offer.

I put together a round up of trend tips, colour information and what's new in accessories.

Photos Credits: Style.com, bananarepublic.com, guess.com

The world of couture and high fashion can sometimes feel far removed from that of the classroom and cubicle. But fashion can in fact be blended in seamlessly with the academic and executive life, with a few pointers on what’s in trend for the season.

Looking for the juice on what’s hot this spring? Read on for lessons in colour, fit, silhouette, accessorization, and give yourself a quick fashion education.

Silhouette talk

Every season or two silhouettes undergo change. With newer variations on the present and additional silhouettes which herald the future.

Silhouettes this season are on the one hand emphasize comfort with shirt dresses (belted and in cotton or denim), tunic dresses and tops, the balloon silhouette in the form of skirts, tops and pants, flared knee length skirts for women. This means your empire waist tops and dresses will continue to work at least another season. You could choose to update these by tying a ribbon below your chest for the right look. Halter necks and strapless tops continue to be big news for those able to carry them off. Dolman sleeves (seen above in lime green) and the ‘H’ shape neckline (seen in sage green) are blasts from the past and back in a big way. You’ll be sure to spot these on the ramps and racks for winter as well.

Jackets remain cropped, and hit just below the bust or get sparkly with sequins and rhinestones for evening. Throw on a number like the ones shown above and layer your knit tops and blouses. Look out for satin details on tops, dresses, skirts and pants.

Jeans and Pants: The freshest take on pants is the Cropped Pant. In two lengths, one ending above the knee and the other which hits just below the knee, the cropped pant is a style which works for all figure types. For the hip heavy though, hip covering tops are a good idea.

The skinny leg or drain pipes continue on from winter as the staple in pants and jeans. As dark wash jeans these are a personal favourite as well. Wear it chino style for office chic or as skinny jeans for an evening out with friends.

The contoured leg jean, a slimmer cousin of the boot leg is also a stylish choice, for those who just can’t let go of the boot-cut silhouette.

Men’s looks: For guys the looks to be inspired by include a layering of a dark casual jacket over a t-shirt and jeans or chinos, or for more casual style, combine a pair of dark wash denims with a shirt and zip-front sweatshirt.

Jackets remain soft and unstructured, in glossy twill, dark wash denim and soft linen.

For the man serious about his style, white cords are where it is this season. Worn with beige, brown and lighter shades of blue these make for a very refined look.

Colour Story

Hot colours this season include white, seen in all white dresses on ramps the world over. Yellow in an almost acid avatar, and a bright pop of vermillion are this seasons new arrivals. Colours like bright green, crimson red, cobalt blue, coppery brown and black round off the palette. Accents of matte and shiny gold, silver and copper bring the mix to a boil.

Accessories Story

Going Metallic: We’ve seen gold, silver and copper on bracelets, earrings, big shoulder bags and the like. But this season prepare to see these everywhere from ballet flats to watches to newer takes on your favourite kolhapuris.

For the boys all-metal watches in gold and matte chrome are the hottest news this season, while for the girls coppery-gold tones travel as far as multi-strand necklaces and makeup.

Glam Shades: A pair of well-made shades are essential for everyone this season. Not only do they protect your eyes from harmful UV rays, they also appreciably up your glam quotient.

Bags and Shoes: While ballet flats & platform heels are the stylish options for women’s shoes, for men it is the pointy toed loafers and tennis shoes, which make for a well put together look.

While big shoulder bags continue in newer shapes and colours for women, it is the clutch that reigns supreme for the evening. While for guys the canvas messenger bag remains a handy essential.

Tarun's Trails

2006-04-28T12:56:00.001+05:30

Last weekend i watched Alque Padamsee's adaptation of the Bard's 'Macbeth'.

Not a great fan of the senior Padamsee's work, what drew me was the promise of seeing costumes fashioned by couturier Tarun Tahiliani amongst the action on stage.

While the production had its high points, i was quite taken aback on seeing the costumes.

The ensembles bore the appropriate period look with capes that secured around the neck, faux leather fashioned into breast plates and thigh grazing tunics worn over leggings (hose) for the knights. Even the suede footwear was detailed with rivetted straps that ran up the calves. The maid servants' garb appeared charming and feminine to the eye, and in the case of Lady Macbeth, appropriatly dark, mysterious and sensuous.

But something kept bothering my eye.... And it took me a moment to figure what that discordant note was. And lo and behold clarity presented itself. The garments were badly constructed!

And not i'm not talking threads hanging loose..... but puckers and bad bad draping and construction!

Lady Macbeth's gown looked flat. One could tell it was a Tarun from the flow of fabric and the twists and turns of the drape, but the execution was plain horrid!

Post show, i spoke to a couple of friends in the know and pieced together the story.

Those were indeed designs from the Tahiliani stable, but in trying to keep production costs low, the sketches had been interpreted into fabric by Padamsee's costume people.

From what i hear Tarun himself was aghast at the final effect and asked to not be enlisted for such projects again.

Just goes to show, that quality and technique are as much a hallmark of a classy design label as the creative content.

What does it take to be a world renowned designer?

2006-04-07T12:17:00.000+05:30

by Merril Diniz for Rediff.com

This question was one I was hoping to tackle here on the blog, and as I hopped over to Rediff.com, I found they'd gotten Didier Grumbach, Chairman of the Fédération Française de la Couture (French Association of Couture) to reveal all.

The Fédération Française de la Couture, du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode was established in 1973. It derives from the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture created in 1868. So to say that Didier Grumbach is a prominent figure in the world of international fashion is putting it lightly. And it is key to note that he was present at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, that commenced in Delhi the other day.

So it doesn't get much better than this. If you aspire to someday be the toast of the fashion cognoscenti, with an empire to call your own, then listen up and listen good as Didier Grumbach reveals some gems about what works in the international market and how to build your brand. This is what he had to say…

Let your personality shine

A designer must not be influenced by anyone else. "He has a message that is totally his own. He creates something that doesn't exist in the world, which becomes international." Didier quotes the example of French designer Jean Paul Gaultier who didn't sell a piece from his first show. "He was weird. Of course, he thought his clothes were very wearable. In a year or two, it became a trend and he built a repertoire. Because of such a repertoire, the brand survives even after the departure of the designer."

Didier also mentions designers like Chanel and Balienciaga, whose brands live on even today. He calls Gaultier an artist, whose designs brought out his own personality. This is one approach to designing.

Designing for an audience

The other approach is to adjust designs to a specific territory and with a target audience in mind. He stresses that being a world-class designer is not just about how many orders you get. "You can be very successful in selling. You can also make a fantastic impact and get few orders. To build your brand, these two things are complementary."

India on the international ramp

According to Didier, there are no nationalities in the world of fashion and India must be shown to the world in the right way. "The way we will look at fashion with your Indian culture is something that will add tthe world community the way Japan has succeeded in changing the way we work and feel. We dress in a Japanese manner without even knowing it, thinking it is part of the everyday world," says Didier.

He quotes the examples of Japanese designers Kenzo, who opened his first boutique in 1970, and Issey Miyake, who first showcased his collection in Paris in 1973. Eventually, both went on to make a mark on the international map.

Photograph: Jewella C Miranda

2006-04-06T14:08:00.001+05:30

Little Red Riding Hood Goes to Tokyo via India

That's how designer Manish Arora describes his collection at the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week that got off to a rocking start in Delhi yesterday. Renowned as the enfant terrible of the Indian Fashion circuit, Arora also ably sports the tag 'King of Kitsch'.

This collection was infact the same one Arora showed at London Fashion Week earlier this year and stayed true to Manish's hugely flamboyant style. His clothes take over the room and certainly aren't for the faint of heart. Looking back on the past few years, it appears that Manish is on a journey of excess, quite like the one the world witnessed a few seasons ago with Galliano.

Manish's is a roving eye. He allows all manner of visual stimuli to end up on his clothes. A million colours burst forth with each ensemble, with as many fabrics and embellishment techniques visible in each garment. The effect is nothing short of striking psychedelia.

Arora's world is a stoned man's paradise. A fantasy world where Lil' Red Riding Hood sets off on a journey to Tibet, taking the meandering scenic route. She finds herself in India meeting with Gods and animals. Elsewhere exploring forests, snow capped moutains, the streets and skylines of cities and taking many a detour along the way.

Yours truly on BBC World Service Radio

2006-04-05T21:44:00.000+05:30

Thanks to the post I wrote on the wardrobe malfunction issue, I was asked by the kind people at BBC World Service Radio to participate in a live discussion on their show 'World Have Your Say'. The topic of discussion was the reaction of the Indian media and politicians to the incidents. It was broadcast last night around 11.30 pm IST.

They sent over the link to the online audio file as it went online today. You can listen to the program here. You'll find the audio link (labelled 'Listen to the programme') on the right hand side bar. Let me know if you have any problems accessing it. You need to have either Windows Media Player or Real Player to listen in.

There are a bunch of issues discussed during the show, ranging from Kuwaiti women going to the polls, to the reaction to the news that Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra is stepping down, reaction to the news that Zacarias Moussaoui is eligable to face the death penalty and the political reaction to the wardrobe malfunctions at Lakme Fashion Week. The the style editor of the national daily Indian Express, Namrata Sharma Zakaria was also a guest on the show.

So go hear out our opinions, and share your own. Here's to the the power of blogging!

Sonam Dubal's Cosmic Romance

2006-04-05T02:12:00.000+05:30

While Anshu Arora looked to Japan, couturier Sonam Dubal ventured closer home. In this collection titled 'Cosmic Romance', Dubal brought alive visions of Tibetian and Sikkimese textile traditions.

The austere landscape and traquil elegance of the region were the essence of this very wearable collection. Dubal's strength lies in creating silhouettes that are pan-Asian in style.

The designer has long been a promoter of the traditional Tibetian raw silk colloquially termed burrey or tsen which is handwoven in south Assam. His fabrics are layered and embroidered both by hand and machine, with surface embellishment through silk-stitched stripes and floral embroidery explorations in resham (silk yarn) to create a carpet weave like quality reminiscent of Western Asia.

Tsen along with crepe de chine formed the basis of this 55 ensemble collection, while colours ranged from muted tones with touches of gray, black and cream, broken with some rust, burgundy, deep red, orange, cobalt blue and black.

Seen alongside is a sublime ensemble, carried by model Bhavan Kapoor. I simply love the refinement of line, and balance of shapes, contrast, embroidery and stripe. Take away the kimono style jacket and the resulting look is very street chic.

For contemporary chic Dubal had a rust embroidered Nepalese top worn with a circular embroidered bakhu skirt. Subtle drama was generated with a black coat with black honju dotted pyjamas and striped obi belt.

Trend Tip:
Interestingly, obi belts are all the rage for Resort wear with international designers like Dries Van Noten showing the sensuous Japanese accessory over soft, unstructured and feminine blouses.
Source: Guise

With this collection at Lakme fashion Week, Sonam Dubal succeeded in reminding us that there is indeed much beauty and romance in rustic threads.

The Bakhu and Honju

The Bhutias are people of Tibetan origin that migrated to Sikkim perhaps somewhere after the fifteenth century. In Northen Sikkim, where they are the major inhabitants, they are known as the Lachenpas and Lachungpas. The language spoken by the Bhutias is Sikkimese.

The traditional dress of the male member is known as the Bakhu which is a loose cloak type garment with full sleeves. The ladies dress consists of a silken Honju which is a full sleeve blouse and a loose gown type garment. The ladies are very fond of heavy jewelry made of pure gold.

Source: www.sikkim.nic.in

Anshu's Oriental Connection

2006-04-04T16:05:00.000+05:30

Designers often allow art and craft elements from exotic lands to permeate their collections. This time around Anshu Arora Sen drew inspiration from the Japanese art of Origami, birds and the different times of the day for her collection of 45 ensembles at the Lakme Fashion Week.

Anshu is one of the most creative designers we have here in India, known as much for the esoteric quality of her clothes as their innovative garment construction. From her first foray onto the fashion scene in 2001 at the Lakme India Fashion Week, Anshu Arora Sen has always drawn critical appreciation. Post an introspective silence of two years, Anshu's voice resounded with more clarity than ever before.

Her storytelling was simultaneously crisp and concise, poetic and lyrical. With a whimsy reflective of the designer herself, the models sat by the edges of the ramp, dangling their feet and looking around curiously before walking down seemingly entranced by the deeply soulful music.

Colours moved from silver grey to acid green, orange, shocking pink and brown in short silk and organza. Garments were structured with draping, folding, pin tucking, pleating and cutting. The effect was very nearly sculptural and timeless.

Perfectly tailored pieces with the occasional contrast lining for skirts and dresses were breathtaking, while skirts wound their way around the body, to be held in place with tie-ups or pins. Halter dresses were given a new dimension as they plunged dangerously below the back waist and oversized collars held the garment together.

Trousers were skin tight but with enough detailing to remain eye catching. Anshu chose to keep embellishments minimal - beaded motifs, strings and beads, floral appliqués, smocking, quilting and hints of embroidery at neck, sleeve or blouse closures.

For Fall, she added in some vibrant jackets with overlapping closures and knee length coats. Here was a collection that was not only high on creativity but commercial viability as well. It gave one a sense of Issey Miyake's style, but Anshu's soft, dream like sensibility made it all her own.

Surily's Trans-continental Journey

2006-04-01T02:36:00.000+05:30

If one were to take away the stars from Surily Goel's debut Lakme Fashion Week show, there were few moments that really made an impact.

Her collection titled 'Roses Are Forever' was inspired by the many moods of a woman in love, from shy and flirtatious, to sultry and passionate. While the collection had a lot of colour and glamour, it tended towards a lack in innovation, with certain shapes like the flounced panelled skirt appearing too often and the Rose theme not often enough.

The sequence was divided into four parts each representing a different mood, each with a romantic title. I'll just walk you through the ensembles that represent each.

Here you see Neelam Kothari in an ensemble from the line 'Wild Temptation', which was a printed cotton resort line with African tribal prints on halters, skirts, minis and tube dresses in vibrant hues of red, turquoise, mustard and sunshine yellow. An interesting line, but one which doesn't quite fall within the Rose theme.

Paisleys ruled on kimono-inspired silhouettes in the second line titled 'Sweet Sensation'. With a definite Oriental flavour in all-over prints on muted tones of grey/blue satin, this line consisted of blouses, dresses and tiny tops as well as long slim skirts with crochet lace insets.

'Tender Love' the third collection replete with charming English touches such as this lacey parasol, had elements of an ecru crochet base with bright georgette insets.

Finally, 'Pure Passion' with abstract rose inspired prints in red and blue on a black satin ground, brings to mind the sensuality of the Spanish dancer, as can be seen here on the lovely Nina Manuel.

One came away with the impression that the designer was attempting to explore roses in their pale English softness, as also their vibrant Spanish lusciousness, their dramatic Oriental avtaar, and not to miss their sub-Saharan African quality, but the final effect appeared fragmented thanks to these very varied points of reference. And while I concede it's no joke putting together a collection, somewhere along this journey across continents, Surily left us feeling a tad disoriented.

Photos: Rediff.com, Reuters.

Rocky picks on 'Lolita' for inspiration

2006-03-30T15:05:00.000+05:30

Bollywood's favourite designer chose to depart from his strongly sexy, silver screen mould and give us a new direction to Fall/Winter '06. His collection is dedicated to the modern day 'Lovely Lolitas'.

In his own words, "It is about a woman who is flirtatious, sexy, intelligent and confident," he says. "It talks about her dual personality. All pretty and proper on the outside, with a naughty, mean streak within. It’s cheek and chutzpah, cleverly concealed by innocence."

Drawing inspiration from teen fashion of the 60s and 70s, Rocky came up with a western look that is chic and contemporary, with touches of his flamboyant style. This collection found him playing with separates as never before, putting them together to create a flirty, young, feminine look.

Rocky's skirts came in all shapes and lengths, from the barely there micro minis, to nostalgia inducing flouncy, layered, calf length ones and finally long columnar numbers perched provocatively at the hips. One detail that caught my eye, was the bunched up waistline of this shimmery gold skirt, held in place with an applied waistband.

Denim played an important part but was restricted to leg clinching jeans with lavish embroidery, and seemed discordant with the over all feel of the collection. Metallic and glitter elements were spotted, as gold shorts, dazzling structured jackets and glittering corsets gave the collection the drama it needed.

Fabrics ranged from lace, georgette, chiffon, lame and Rocky's new favourite - faux fur, appeared as trims, bolero jackets, and stoles, sometimes with jarring effect. Asymmetry was the common theme, whether for his tunics, blouses, skirts or dresses.

Rocky showed a fondness for the 'H' shaped Flapper silhoutte, as seen here on Carol Gracias, along with the Empire line. His silhouettes showed extremes - close fitted all the way or voluminous peasant sleeves, skirts and blouses - the latter reined in with a tight vest on occasion.

One of the highlights of the collections was the rich texturing and surface treatment for some of the garments - ruching, shredding, smocking to give new life to the fabrics.

The colour palette was muted as neutrals and pastels like pink, champagne, were enlivened by sudden bursts of bright cherry reds, golds and forest greens.

Embellishments were opulent as clear crystals, stones, polished pearls and 3D flowers gave the designer's high end prêt line called 'Rocky S Noir' that up market feel.

Hair styling included original 60s teen hair dos with lots of soft curls and fringes. A charming addition was the off-white flower detail which replaced ribbons and bows as hair fasteners.

Rocky's make-up story borrowed heavily from the Lolita look again with lots of pink on lips and fresh faces. The look was intended to be youthful and flirtatious and Rocky scored a perfect 10.

With inputs from www.rvgonline.com
Photos: Reuters, Rediff.com

Of wardrobe malfunctions and ramp gaffs!

2006-03-29T22:15:00.000+05:30

I know, I ought to have given you detailed reviews of the LFW Day 1 shows by now, but I have got a life, plus more pressing are the faux pas and faux moves which keep coming off the ramp our way and need to be spoken of!

First it was Surily Goel going OTT on the glam factor, resulting in the collection of a serious designer like Anshu Arora Sen being sent to near oblivion (Indian news channel NDTV has been showcasing Rocky S' video clip with the title "A Small Shop", hoping no one in fashiondom will know the difference) and now we have a huge huge gaff by Mumbai based designer Bennu Sehgall.

Model Carol Gracias was left red cheeked and bare chested mid ramp thanks to an ill-fitting and badly constructed halter top designed by Bennu Sehgall for her line titled 'Bennu Sehgall Originals'. An audience packed with fashionistas, international buyers, media reps and photographers got more than what they bargained for when Carol took to the catwalk and the ties on her halter top came undone! Commendably the model kept her calm, held up the garment and kept on strutting with poise and confidence, even striking a pose at head ramp.

Backstage whispers reveal that Bennu Sehgall's outfits were "ill-fitting and bizarre" and models, who are known to accomodate all manner of oddities and fancies of designer clothing and accessories, were reluctant to don her ensembles.

Well, we now hear the Fashion Week organisers are rethinking Sehgall's membership. It's unfortunate but that's what we have fittings for! They are meant to help avoid such gaffs and the onus of ensuring that the show goes smoothly lies on the designer and her backstage help.

All would have been well had the ensembles been given the clean chit fit-wise. But as that isn't so, it does throw something of an eclipse on Bennu Sehgall's future with Lakme Fashion Week.

Well there is always the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week. There you have it... the silver lining in view.

Photo: Rediff.com

Fashion Week Snapshots:

2006-03-29T12:14:00.000+05:30

Bollywood outshines Surily's clothes

How many celluloid stars does it take to light up a show? If you go by Surily Goel's estimate, atleast three on ramp and seven odd more in the front row.

You'd think it was a Bollywood awards show with the number of celebs that lined Surily's show.

With Neelam Kothari rendering sweet and girly, an African inspiration tube dress, followed by Salman lending his trademark maschismo to the velvet suit emblazoned "Royalty" and Malaika Arora rounding off the catwalk with a huge dose of sultry style, the show seemingly had something for everyone.

Well, in her own words: "Clothes are not just embellishments that enhance one's personality they also reflect it. I ensure that there is only one point of emphasis in every garment I design. To define my design philosophy with three adjectives clarity, wearablity and most of all versatility."

She appears to be sticking to her mantra with mixed results.

Too much of a good thing?

The dress code for Manish Malhotra's special invitees appears to have been black and white, what with the ramp decked out in pure black and the collection that graced it fashioned in ethereal white.

Here's Sangeeta Bijlani with cricketer husband Azhar, dressed in what can only be termed a study in variegated black and white stripes. While the suit is classy and as we overheard an Armani, the sailor striped tee could have been given a clear miss for something solid. Same goes for the satin handbag... simply a stripe too many.

Absolutely delicious thought are the sassy zebra sandals. Let's just train our eyes on those.

Photos: Reuben Varghese for Rediff.com

Lakme Fashion Week Sidelines:

2006-03-29T10:02:00.000+05:30

Narendra Ahmed's petition against the FDCI shot down

Cementing the divide between the Mumbai and Delhi fashion circles, the Anti-Monopoly Commission yesterday turned down Mumbai designer Narendra Ahmed's petition to stay the FDCI's upcoming Fashion Week in Delhi. Ahmed had hoped to delay the India Fashion Week so that he could show his clothes there post the Lakme Fashion Week.

Ever since FDCI parted ways with Lakme, it had imposed a ban on participation of designers who attend the rival event.

The commision held that the restrictions imposed by FDCI did not amount to "restrictive practices". FDCI on it's part sited 'limited' exhibition slots -- either on ramp or in stalls, adding that in the larger interest of the fashion fraternity, the council was focused on giving priority to those members who are not exhibiting in other events.

Contrary to the populist view, the commission views the FDCI's stand as one that "promotes competition and does not curtail it by adopting restrictive trade practices".

Maybe there's comfort to be found in Lenin's words: "It is impossible to predict the time and progress of revolution. It is governed by its own more or less mysterious laws. But when it comes it moves irresistibly."

Read up on the punches and blows so far.

The Lakme Fashion Week kicks off in Mumbai

2006-03-28T20:57:00.000+05:30

The Lakme Fashion Week 2006 commenced today in Mumbai, amid much hype and some confusion. One last minute snag that caused much anxiety was the change of PR agencies from IPAN to Genesis. That blip past, and post the usual delays, the fashion set, journalists and international buyers strapped in for the crazy ride this week promises to be!

Day 1 saw the prêt lines of Mumbai designers Rocky S, Surily Goel and Manish Malhotra along with the show of waifish Delhi based designer Anshu Arora Sen for 'A Small Shop'.

Bollywood dominated the scene with stars wedged in the front row seats as well as on the ramp. With Surily Goel literally 'watching his back', Salman Khan strutted the ramp in a flashy red shirt and black suit emblazoned with the words "Royalty" at his back.

With model Shivani Kapur looking the icy pale Goth Bride by his side, Bollywood actor John Abraham strode down the ramp, a part of the show stopper for Rocky S. The duo were a vision of haute couture for what Lakme proposed was to be essentially a presentation of ready-to-wear clothing.

Oh well, John won the audience's appreciation.

Rocky explained: "John is a good friend. In all-women model show, we thought making a guy walk the ramp would make it look complete. So, at the end of the show, we have John walking in with Kapur."

Photo: Jewella C Miranda for Rediff.com

Spotlight: Anshu Arora Sen

Designer Anshu Arora Sen is known as the petite woman's designer, choosing to construct clothing with minimal seams and no zippers or mechanical fastenings, her clothes are often termed 'zen-like'. Having trained in Fashion Design at NIFT, Anshu started her label “A Small Shop” in 1998. Her collection currently retails in India, as well as in London and Brussels.

Collection Trademark: minimalist; vibrant colours; adventurous shapes, cuts and drapes; traditional Indian craft-inspired details e.g. drawstrings (her creations are devoid of zippers and fasteners!)

Drop by for reviews, trend spotlights and snatches of gossip as the event unfurls right here and swing around to Sifymax, for live webcasts of the shows.

Up Next:

Rocky picks on 'Lolita' for inspiration.
Deconstructing Surily's style statement.
Get lyrical with Anshu Arora Sen.
The reveal on Manish Malhotra's collection.

2006-03-13T15:37:00.000+05:30

An intiative with heart: From bags to riches

A small - scale project to help an Indian slum by selling handbags made of discarded plastic has boomed into a million - grand industry with a heart.

It may sound hard to believe, but handbags for sale in some of London's fashionable boutiques started out as used plastic bags scavenged from the rubbish heaps of Delhi. They are the product of a cottage industry run out of the living rooms of a handful of houses in a Delhi slum. The plastic bags are ferreted out by the rag-pickers, the poorest of Delhi's poor, who make their living hunting for scraps in the rubbish of their richer neighbours.

They are then moulded together into single sheets of thick, durable plastic, stitched into handbags with bright, colourful designs, and sent off to boutiques in Britain, the US, France, Spain, and much of Europe.

It is all the result of an environmental and development project dreamed up four years ago by an Indian couple, Shalabh and Anita Ahuja, who run their own NGO, Conserve.

The plastic is stitched into brightly coloured handbags

Waste management is one of the biggest problems that India faces and Anita and her friends have been tackling the issue since 1998. They worked on a waste management project with low-income groups in Mandaoli (a Delhi slum) for nearly four years, and then started another project in Safdarjung. "We collected waste from 500 houses to make compost in a municipal corporation park. That's when we realised how much plastic the city uses. So we started on the plastic bag project."

Conserve came up with the novel idea of turning used plastic bags into trendy handbags, shopping bags, wallets, tablemats and notepad covers. These are being snapped up by environment-friendly shoppers, who are happy to support an idea that has changed the lives of slum women and turned one of the banes of city life into a saleable product. The plastic bags are collected by women from east Delhi slums (Phoragaon, Yamuna Pusta and Mandaoli). Each day, they scavenge around the garbage bins, hunt in choked drains and pick up flyaway trash on traffic-infested roads. The plastic they collect is thoroughly washed, dried, separated by colour and arranged in trays; the women wear masks while working to protect themselves from plastic toxicity. The plastic bags then go into a machine designed by Conserve, which presses them into thick sheets. These sheets are then bought by Conserve.

Says Anita:

"I have started looking at plastic differently. Much to my family's embarrassment, I get out of my car at traffic lights and pick up colourful plastic bags from the roads. It's very difficult to colour plastic and we use no dyes. Colourful bags make the sheets more vibrant."

She admits that most people are hesitant about buying bags made from waste plastic. "We tell the women making the sheets that they must wash the plastic very carefully, for buyers will be looking at both quality and cleanliness." Conserve's efforts were amply rewarded when the products they recently put up during a special event at Dilli Haat (a permanent crafts bazaar) were all sold out. The products sold at reasonable prices — handbags between Rs 300 and Rs 1,500, shopping bags from Rs 50 to Rs 250 and wallets between Rs 100 and Rs 300.

They freely admit that they never dreamed that what they envisaged as a small-scale project for a single slum would turn into a profitable enterprise, exporting all over the world and with an annual turnover of around £100,000.

Today, Conserve's handbags contribute to the livelihoods of more than 300 people, from the rag-pickers paid for collecting the plastic bags, to the skilled labourers who sew the handbags. The NGO employs eight rag-pickers directly, as its core team, but buys plastic bags from a far larger number.

Anita and her team are thrilled with the compliments they have been receiving. "If we count the human hours put into the project, I can safely say we have invested roughly Rs 1 lakh in it. We hope we can get a grant to buy sewing machines. At present, women gather in the homes of those who have machines and this slows down our production. We also need more sheet-presser machines and we need to expand our collection centres. But more importantly, the women who work for Conserve should become the shareholders of the company. If that happens then in our small way, we may get people to see throwaway plastic bags differently."

With inputs from The Star, BBC.co.uk and The Hindu.

2006-03-08T00:13:00.000+05:30

Shawl Whisperer

This shawl is no ordinary piece of clothing. While gifts allow us to remember friends and loved ones when we travel or move to far away places, the whiSpiral is a new kind of keepsake that explores how technology can enhance the way garments and accessories evoke memories of these relationships.

And I simply *love* the point of inspiration... The whiSpiral is inspired by the power of a simple human voice to evoke rich memories of a person or relationship, and by the power of a whisper as a medium of intimacy.

Circuitry is directly integrated in the textile that allows you to record up to 9 audio messages at different points in a spiral-shaped shawl. The messages are whispered back each time you wrap the shawl around yourself, or caress a different part of the fabric. The whiSpiral would be a perfect going away gift.

2006-03-07T12:51:00.000+05:30

Levi's RedWire DLX iPod jeans

A quick heads-up to Fall '06.

Now we all know how hugely popular the iPod is. Billions and gazillion pieces sold worldwide. The final frontier for iPod accessories is clothing. And who's the latest to jump on that particular bandwagon? None other than jeans-maker Levis is keeping its date with technology. Come Fall and Levis will launch the new Levi's RedWire DLX Jeans worldwide.

Designed for both men and women, the jeans will seamlessly integrate iPod plug-and-play technology, using an iPod docking cradle, which will be invisibly housed within a side pocket.

Interestingly a special joystick remote control will be externally designed into the jeans' watch pocket to enable easy operation of the iPod. Four way controls will allow the wearer to easily navigate, play/pause, track forward, track back and adjust volume without removing the device from the pocket. Sounds groovy.... In addition, a handy retractable headphone unit has been built directly into the garment to help prevent tangles and efficiently manage the earphone wires.

Now we assume all of this will be detachable, if they have any intentions of letting you wash your jeans! Then again, jeans do look best when never, ever washed, so who knows.

2006-03-06T12:13:00.000+05:30

Of Bollywood tailors and star waist sizes

Last week i worked on a fashion styling assignment. The project involved styling a set of 6 heavily embroidered kanjivaram sarees for the photoshoot of a South Indian saree brand called Seemati. The model was Indian tele/ theatre actress Mandira Bedi.

The shoot went off without a hitch, and we managed to achieve the right look courtesy some mighty creative draping and a few blouses and corsets i got tailored from Mandira's tailor.

Located in the bylanes of a Mumbai suburb is the workshop of the man. Having reached there post a long day of fabric sourcing, i was looking to breeze in, explain the styles, hand over the material and vamoosh! After going back and forth on a few styling details, the man launched into delivering me a) the story of his life and b) his extended resume.

While i was pleased to know that he's worked with the likes of Shah Rukh Khan, Sridevi, Karishma Kapoor, Rani Mukherjee and the lot, i was unable to evoke the kind of response he was probably expecting to his revelations.

At one point he thrust in my face the photos of a cross dressed SRK, as taken during the filming of 'Duplicate'. He proudly pointed out how his corset had aided the Khan in flaunting a life-like cleavage (which admittedly looked pretty real) and helped draw in his waist from an ungainly 34" to a womanly 25". He also hastened to add he'd performed magic in the same vein to reel in the expansive waistline of the original Indian bhangra man Daler Mehendi.

I must admit the man's pieces fit like a dream, and were wonderfully finished as well. Maybe i ought to call him to say so and boost his spirits :)

2006-02-13T14:19:00.000+05:30

How the Runway Took Off

Came across this interesting piece by Amanda Fortini at Slate.com. It's a brief history of the fashion show.

Fashion scholars have penned histories of the high heel, the corset, and the little black dress, but no one has yet written a definitive history of the fashion show. The omission is curious. The problem may be that the fashion show, like any performative enterprise, is by nature ephemeral. Or perhaps it's that the fashion crowd, always in pursuit of the next thing, lacks the archival impulse: Why hash over yesterday's clothes? Whatever the reason, as Valerie Steele, chief curator and director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, told me: "The topic of fashion shows remains to find its historian."

Read the full article here.

2006-02-07T20:44:00.001+05:30

'Geisha' fashion takes hold in the US

Products associated with big-budget Hollywood film 'Memoirs of a Geisha' are already hitting the stores even before the movie hits theaters. The items inspired by this movie are made of rich velvet and satin and invoke a world of luxury. In a confluence of art and commerce, the romantic epic depicting a young girl blossoming into a legendary geisha has also become a style - one found in Banana Republic, Bath & Body Works, and high-end department stores. Based on Arthur Golden's bestselling novel, "Memoirs of a Geisha" tells the story of a young girl who was taken from her home and sold into slavery to a renowned geisha house. She transforms as she learns the arts of the geisha, including dance and music, wearing kimono, and elaborate makeup and hair. The film acknowledges that her life is sometimes dark. But what shines through on the big screen are the colors and costumes, images nothing short of glamorous.

The Banana Republic limited-edition collection appeared in select stores and online in November. It includes a silk floral kimono top ($88), Asian tassel necklaces ($58), and a satin kimono dress ($168). At Bath & Body Works a special display is dedicated to products such as a Rice Face Wash ($32), Flower Petal Mask ($35), and Shimmer Powder with Crushed Pearls ($38). The products can also be found online and in stores such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Sephora.

2006-01-10T22:12:00.000+05:30

Fashion Resolutions for 2006

Ever wonder why most new year’s resolutions never work? Because they feel more like 'to-do' lists and 'have to's' than they do an exciting year ahead. Using resolutions as a means to reprimand yourself is the quickest way to have them backfire. Use them instead to set goals for ways in which you want to improve and in ways you know are achievable as well.

If your New Year's fashion resolutions feel unmotivating, uninspiring and like something you 'should' do vs. something you really 'want' to do, drop them right now and decide you are going to learn a whole new way of creating and experiencing the kind of wardrobe you really want.

To get you started, I’m sharing a few of my personal resolutions.

Here goes:

OUT WITH THE OLD - IN WITH THE NEW

Resolution 1: I will lay to rest my well-worn favourites.

Know when to lay your clothes to rest! Yes, you love that denim jacket that is way out of date, and those pointed toe pumps that you wore in the 9^t^h grade, but time moves on and so must you. I know the attachment one can develop for a favourite piece of clothing or accessory.

It surely is most delightful, to have a few such items and wear them as often as you can and feel utterly at ease. But, there comes a time when that cherished items shows signs of grave wear and just ends up looking frumpy and tacky.

That’s an opportune time to make changes that match the change in you! I know, it can be tough, but allow yourself to hang onto the past for a month or two post retiring it and then give it away. Even clothes have a life span.

Resolution 2: I will junk the clothes that do no fit and those I never wear.

Yep, it sure is amazing. You hang something in your closet long enough and it shrinks two sizes! Try on your sport jacket, blazer or suit jacket and fasten the middle button. If a vent pulls, a pocket tugs or the jacket appears to grow love handles before your eyes, give the jacket away to someone less fortunate.

Let the excess baggage go. Not only does it bog down your fashion flight, it severely takes up cupboard space! Ditch any clothes, accessories, make-up and beauty products that you don’t use, will never use, should never have bought, are old, faded, are not flattering and are taking up precious space.

Sort through your accessories. See what works with the clothes you wear now, and make note of what you need to buy to complement the rest of your wardrobe. More often than not, it’s the little things that can pull together an outfit.

Try a new eye shadow, blush or lip colour each season. As for the boys, try a new colour or pattern, fabric or colour combination. It’s one thing to have a signature color; it’s another to get stuck in a rut.

Resolution 3: I resolve to not be lazy when it comes to developing my own style.

Most of us have definitely added “travel more” in capital letters to our resolutions. To make that work for your wardrobe, resolve that when traveling to a new city, part of the city, or new country, you visit the local bazaar or flea market and try out the traditional gear!

Be critical as to what suits your figure and pick up accessories that co-ordinate with the outfit and would fit in with the rest of your wardrobe.

You needn’t get down to wearing saris or waistcoats if you never have! But a touch of ingenuity can turn a sari into a beautiful chudidar-kurta set or a stole into a beautiful wrap. Guys can additionally work with handcrafted accessories like leather shoes, bags, ties and stoles.

A girl friend of mine wears an Omani men’s head dress, as a stole. It looks awesome due to its sheer exotic colour and stripe story. Work that mind’s eye!

Resolution 4: I will play that dream role today!

So you've always secretly admired artists, writers and sculptors for their creative style? Or have always wanted to dress like an Indian demi-god or goddess, elegant in earthy printed kurtas and draped stoles? Ask yourself what stops you. And then go out and live it.

Check out the 'mix and match' sections of departmental stores or visit the likes of Fabindia, People Tree, OMO, and Anokhi to get yourself some ethnic togs. Enlist friends, family, sales people or stylists to help you achieve your goals.

The start of a brand new year is the perfect time for reinvention. That touch of innovation at the start of the year can infuse freshness and a new perspective into all aspects of life.

Resolution 5: I will only buy clothes that I love and that make me feel good.

They say the best way to forget all your troubles is to wear tight shoes! Some guys who want baggy jeans simply buy them two sizes too big, then hitch them up in gathers on a wide belt (sounds familiar?). But fashion maths doesn't add up like that. Instead, buy jeans in your size that are cut in a 'comfort fit'. That's the only way to assure the correct proportions.

Promise yourself you will be kind to your body and sole(s) this year, and choose only those pieces of that fit well, don’t pull, tug, oddly gather or itch. Imagine the amount of time you save from fussing, frowning, tugging and limpingover ill-fitting shoes and clothes.

Comfortable clothes give you more time and energy to be yourself. Not to mention a huge boost in confidence.

Resolution 6: I will find ways to enjoy building my personal style.

Sophisticated doesn’t mean boring. For example a tie can be both stylish and flamboyant, if chosen in subtle but fresh colours and textures.

Mix it up. College blokes can put a favourite hooded sweatshirt under a corduroy jacket. Ladies, pair a knee length colourfully patterned kurta with your jeans and throwon a jacket!

I have this lovely military style beige twill jacket I sometimes wear over a vibrant green kurta and deep
blue jeans. Tres chic, if I may say so myself! Over new years, I donned said jacket over a flapper style strappy sequined top (see pic) and black trousers. I was thankful not to be swept away amid the prevailing sea of black.

Resolution 7: I resolve to always attempt to shop smartly.

No matter what your budget, whether you’re more likely to hit the sales and export surplus stores or are sure to be seen at the hippest boutiques, make sure you shop responsibly. After all what’s the point in stuffing one’s wardrobe with clothes that are badly cut, finished or sewn?

Resolve to not be a sucker for the razzle-dazzle. Develop a critical eye for quality and tuck your wallet away when faced with something pricy you desire but won’t get much wear out of.

Direct the urge to splurging mainly onto necessities like lingerie (yes, don’t be miserly there), comfortable shoes and a few pieces of precious jewellery.

Try not to overspend on fashion and accessories when shopping with friends! It’s easy to get caught up with what they’re checking out and transition quickly from window/budget shopping to the real thing.

Have yourself a wonderful year ahead!

Fishing for kitsch

2006-01-08T23:59:00.000+05:30

India Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Bangkok Fashion Week, Miami Fashion Week, Fish Fry for Reebok and now a flagship store - designer Manish Arora has done enough last year to be in the news constantly.

His style has been termed one of Bollywood meets Cirque de Soleil; a constellation of riotous colours and shapes that transport one on a journey through the Far East, stopping in India, Thailand, Japan and China without a moment to catch one's breath. And he's been known to display a fear of minimalism; with each surface of fabric in his collections over run with prints and embellishments. Possibly indicative of why he chooses to hit the fashion headlines with such regularity.

In recent times the designer launched his flagship store at Lodhi Colony, New Delhi. The interiors of the store as we hear is spread over two levels, and decidely follows Arora's kitsch style. Tiles with multi coloured flowers sourced from every nook and corner of the country cover the floor, and change tones and patterns throughout the store. Some of the walls are adorned with tiles bearing images of religious icons and are embellished with attractive patterns like polka dots and butterflies. The store is set to house three labels - Manish Arora, Fish Fry and the soon to be launched Get Laid by Manish Arora.

A modest Arora was overheard saying: "I always work extremely hard and that's what you can see in the store as well. I'm elated with the way it has emerged."

In the News: Reebok and Fish Fry

You make your own garam masala, eschew cappuccinos for chai and think Bollywood dance classes are the height of chic. Now buy the shoes.

Last November, Reebok released its first-ever couture sneaker collection; to design them, it selected New Delhi's most outlandish couturier, 33-year-old Manish Arora. Retailing at up to $500 a pair in India (and considerably more in New York City), Reebok's Fish Fry range reflects the explosive use of color and kitsch for which Arora is fast becoming known.

The most intricate of his 12 designs uses embossed suede, rhinestones and crystals.

2006-01-06T23:31:00.001+05:30

School of Frock

Style.com just came out with a neat 'Fashion Yearbook', to check who made the style grade in 2005. The 'School of Frock' as they've cleverly termed it flashes back into 2005 bestowing awards as delightful as 'Cutest Couple' and oddly enough 'Best Tan'. While Galliano won the 'Most Theatrical' title hands down, the '2-gether 4-ever' honour was conferred on that imitable duo Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana. Gwen Stefani was voted 'Most Popular'. Wonder how that sits with the new lady of glam punk.

In staging the runway show for her spring 2006 L.A.M.B. ready-to-wear collection, Gwen Stefani applied a technique she had mastered on her smash solo album, Love. Angel. Music. Baby. She incorporated several styles—chola girl, Rasta, Daisy Buchanan, Maria von Trapp—into one catchy whole. Rappers, mall rats, fashioneditors—no one, it seems, can resist Gwen's charms. Next up for this multitasker? Her first baby, with husband Gavin Rossdale, due in 2006.

Most Theatrical: John Galliano

No contest here, of course. Fashion's favorite impresario turned July's Dior Haute Couture presentation into one for the history books. To mark Christian Dior's 100th birthday, the showman conjured the spirits of a young Master Dior and his maman, who entered a magical mist-laden landscape in a horse-drawn Edwardian carriage. By contrast, Galliano's spring '06 show for his own label, a stirring procession of gigolos, tattooed sailors, and bearded transvestites, was a mere divertissement.

Class Jock: Madonna

While critics debate whether Madonna has regained her musical mojo with November's Confessions on a Dance Floor, we can emphatically report that Madge retains firm control of her abs and thighs and biceps. Dusting herself off after a midsummer equestrian accident, the 47-year-old yoga enthusiast did some serious strutting in the "Hung Up" video, making Gen Y's pop starlets look like the soft, pampered brats they are.

Best Hair: Orlando Pita

Stylist of stars (Naomi, Kirsten, and Madonna), shows, and shoots, Orlando Pita is now available for regular-old haircuts at his salon, Orlo, in Manhattan's Meatpacking District. But before you rush to book an appointment, know that an 80-minute session runs $800. Too pricey? Nearby rival Sally Hershberger is a relative bargain at $600.

Comeback Kid: Kate Moss

It was the fastest turnaround since Steve Jobs rescued Apple. Yes, Kate Moss lost a slew of lucrative contracts after her drug scandal. But since coming out of an Arizona rehab clinic, she's bagged new campaigns with Longchamp and Stella McCartney, not to mention landed on the covers of Vanity Fair and Paris Vogue. The words printed on Alexander McQueen's T-shirt when he took a bow at his October show clearly spoke for the whole fashion community: "We love you Kate."

2005-11-01T02:11:00.001+05:30

Fall 2005 for Women

There is a slight nip in the air, telling us that fall is here, and this year it returns with a whiff of the romantic, glimpses from the past and subtle hints for the future.

Purple replaces pink this season, dark hues for thewinter and pale lilacs for spring. The other colour palette emerging is muted metallic.

Even black which makes a comeback this fall returns in a non-gothic way in ruffled, beaded and pleated forms and graphic prints with white. Chocolate brown gets a feminine twist when paired with deep turquiose and other warmer hues such as dusty rose and earthy greens.

As a return to feminity, lace and net appear as the popular fabrics for the season updated with bright colours and modern cuts.
The casual Bohemian trend comes in the form of luxurious layering (cashmere knits paired with silk dresses) and an assortment of prints from folk to graphic to eastern influence (read Indian influence) all culminate in silhouettes mixed with knits, leather and other solids.

Flared skirts remain an important element of the wardrobe, though updated with evening fabrics (lace, net and chiffon) and interesting cuts.

Pants show a dual trend. They either go the Spanish gaucho way, and are more tailored at the waist with a slight flared drape down the leg to allow for plenty of mobility, or are slim fitted and fall in gathers at the calf like our very own chudidar and Jodhpur pants. Skinny pants work only if you have legs like Angeline Jolie.

Rich jewel tones like emerald, ruby, turquoise, amethyst and topaz are subtly woven into wool and silk to add luster to jackets, blouses and dresses.

The final statement comes from accessories. Beaded necklaces fall lower, two belts instead of one work better, and funky hobo bags rule. It’s all happening this Fall.

Top 5 Picks

#1 Boxy Jackets

The boxy jacket is this season’s jacket update. Combined with well fitting jeans and a round neck t-shirt, it’s more defined, and more defining of you. Look out for military detailing like epaulets, flap pockets and big brass buttons. When worn, this jacket should be the star. Add a touch of femininity to contrast with the boxy lines with a pair of jeweled chandelier earrings and high heels. Alternatively, wear boots and go monochromatic (all shades of one colour). For the Aviator look steer toward brown, while for the Army, go blue/ black.

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#2 Empire Waist Line

The empire line is still reigning as the silhouette for the season. An ode to the romantic and bohemian mood of the moment, these low cut tops gather just below the bust and give many a wardrobe a stylish and chic edge. Embroidered lines, embellishments, seams and panels, all provide the accents giving way to pretty party dresses and flowing tops as well as casual statements with jeans and cords. This is the most flattering and forgiving silhouette to a variety of figures.

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#3 Trouser Jeans

Loose and laid-back in attitude, trouser jeans are the slouchier version of the Boot Cut. More flared than the classic boot-cut, this denim style creates a sexy and dramatic silhouette. Its contouring cut fits slim through the legs, sits low on the waist, and is a great way to accentuate curves.

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#4 The Dress

Whether your style is feminine or flirty, there's a dress to suit your shape. Sheath dresses abound for those of who fit the petite description, while wrap dresses suit the well-endowed among us. Romantics may opt for shirt dresses (dresses that are styled as shirts) and empire waists. In any case, we ought to cheer the return of this classy, feminine garment.

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#5 Boots

Whether worn with jeans, skirts, or cropped pants, boots are fall’s hottest—and most versatile—footwear tickets. The cornucopia of styles includes varying heel heights, leg lengths, shapes, and materials (think leather and buttery suede) and offers winning options for all fashion sensibilities. We now have the option of chunky heels, kitten heels, wedge heels and even flats. Whatever you choose, just be sure the boot ends just below the knee.

As always I hope my notes help you update your wardrobe with style and confidence!

2005-10-31T22:28:00.000+05:30

Fall 2005 for Men

Yes boys, the seasons are a changing. And with the change in season comes a shift in pace and feel. It’s the season of layering, with softness and colour. This year fall brings with it rustic warmth, old world opulence and the charm of the familiar.

Greens are bountiful this season, in every conceivable hue from forest greens to jade to emerald. Dark hues for the winter and fresh tones for spring. The other colour palette that’s carried forward from summer is mustard, burnt orange and grey. Blue ranges from inky and indigo to teal.

Black makes a comeback though in a folksy way coupled with white embellishment in the form of print and embroidery. Brown gets a woodland twist when paired with teal blue and earthy greens and gets with the family into warmer hues such as burgundy and purple.

Fall 2005 is all about rich fabrics and colours, whimsical prints, silhouettes a tad military a tad old country, and a return to formal, refined looks.

If you're ready to get a handle on the season, just devour this Top 5 fall checklist and get cracking.

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Top 5 Picks

#1 The Argyle Checks

The Argyle Check sweater is one of those fashion pieces that continue to resurface every fall; maybe because it's a sophisticated style, or maybe designers haven’t gotten over reinventing it. Whatever the case, you can take your pick of argyle sweaters in V-neck or round-neck. The sweater looks awesome over a collared shirt or worn underneath a sporty jacket.

Wear it with: Distressed jeans.

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#2 The Colour Purple

If you’re the trendsetter in your mob, you may want to set your sights on purple and its intoxicating cousin burgundy. These are the spring equivalent of pale pink and work fabulously as fitted shirts. Throw in a bit of print on the yoke or under-cuff and you have a shirt that smoothly traverses from day to after-office drinks. If you're doubtful about stepping out in full-on purple, then incorporate the shade into your look with details like stripes or an accessory like a scarf or tie.

Wear it with: Black trousers, tucked in for day and worn casually for evening.

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#3 The Sports Jacket

A great looking blazer is one of the season's most coveted essentials. Constructed in corduroy, denim, worsted wool or cotton twill, the blazer keeps things practical and comfortable, while working as easily for day as it does for night. The blazer ups your trend quotient, while keeping you warm when temperatures nose dive. If you’re not quite ready to plunge into this trend, opt for a multiple pocket casual jacket, along the same lines.

Wear it over a bright sweater or funky t-shirt and faded jeans.

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#4 The Grey Jeans

You've got your dark blue jeans, and your light wash pair, but it's time to upgrade your denim collection with a pair of faded or dark grey jeans. The colour of these jeans is pure fall/winter, especially with all the jackets and sweaters cropping up, the style gives you some rugged appeal.

Wear it with: An urbane black turtleneck (high-neck) or round-neck sweater.

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#5 The Ankle Boots

Get the complete outdoorsy feel with ankle high lace up boots or slip-on boots for a sleek finish. Which ever you choose you can be sure these will keep your feet toasty every step of the way, this fall. Boots are the updated on footwear this season. Don’t get left behind.

Wear them with: Jeans or pants - these boots stop at nothing in being ultra-practical.

I hope these Top 5 picks help simplify your choices for fall and have you raring to go!

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Next up: Fall 2005 for Women

2005-10-31T20:19:00.000+05:30

Welcome to Style Asylum!

Hey all you stylish people, a very warm welcome to your very own, spanking new, refuge to style! This space will see us deconstruct and reconstruct all the colourful, perplexing, intriguing and downright drool-inducing contructs of the fashion world. From trends and silhouettes, to colours and fashion seasons, we shall delve into them all and emerge with fresh insights.

I'm Meera Mittal, a professional fashion designer and consultant based in Mumbai, India. I learnt the craft while training in Fashion Design at NIFT, New Delhi (1998 - 2001). I design, consult and write on Fashion & Beauty.

In the area of design some of the industry leaders I have worked with are: Selfridges London, Raymond Be: and The Taj Group.

I am also Fashion Consultant with: Tips4me.com, Sunsilknaturals.com and Fashion and Style Expert on: Rediff.com (India's leading news portal).

From style to spirituality, I have many varied interests, which I hope to share with you along with my thoughts on fashion & style, via this space. Drop me a line with your thoughts!

Much love!

Style Asylum

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WGSN turns 10

Objects of Desire

Are you a fashion entrepreneur?

Spring Fever

Tarun's Trails

What does it take to be a world renowned designer?

Yours truly on BBC World Service Radio

Sonam Dubal's Cosmic Romance

Anshu's Oriental Connection

Surily's Trans-continental Journey

Rocky picks on 'Lolita' for inspiration

Of wardrobe malfunctions and ramp gaffs!

Fashion Week Snapshots:

Lakme Fashion Week Sidelines:

The Lakme Fashion Week kicks off in Mumbai

Shawl Whisperer

Fishing for kitsch

Most Popular: Gwen Stefani

Most Theatrical: John Galliano

Class Jock: Madonna

Best Hair: Orlando Pita

Comeback Kid: Kate Moss